Introduction
Today famed for their octagonal design elements as best seen in the Royal Oak, Royal Oak Offshore, Royal Oak Concept, Code 11.59 and others, Audemars Piguet, like just about every other high-end watchmaker was best-known for their round dress watches. Designed with a minimalist aesthetic that epitomized the timepiece’s functional nature, these dress watches were round, thin and had elegantly legible dials – just as this vintage dress watch has. Hailing from the 1960s and said to be designed by none other than Gerald Genta himself, this ref. 5043BC is an 18kt white gold example that features a white laquer dial with carefully painted stick indices and simple white gold hands that feed into its design language all the more. Featuring a svelte 31.5mm case that stands just 5mm tall, this example is an extra-thin watch, as AP was known for at the time. Powered by the cal. 2003 that Jaeger LeCoultre and Vacheron Constantin launched in 1953 following a joint effort to create an ultra-thin movement. A historically rich movement for a historically rich brand, the cal. 2003 fits perfectly inside of this timepiece and allows it to wear incredibly densely on the wrist as so many vintage watch collectors adore.
Loupe This Scorecard
Grade
V 8
Status
Vetted & Approved
Included
Watch Only
Est. value range
$2,000 – $4,000
The Details
Brand
Audemars Piguet
Dimensions
31.5mm
Model
Vintage Dress Watch
Movement
Manual-wind AP cal. 2003
Reference
5043BC
Bracelet
Leather strap
Year
Circa 1960s
Condition
Very Good
Material
18kt white gold
Included
Watch only
Dial Color
White
Condition
Watch is in very good overall condition. Case shows some signs of wear, with light marks visible along the case. Hallmark on the back of-midcase crisp and visible. Watch dial has been previously refinished, and it is in good overall condition. Aging visible on surface with marks on the surface, and edge wear present. The crystal has some stress crazing visible on the edges. Watch comes on a generic strap and generic steel buckle. Please note that the watch is ticking at the time of cataloging, but it is keeping poor time and a service is suggested.
Our Perspective
An understated timepiece inspired by Bauhaus design language where form follows function, the ref. 5043BC uses exceptional craftsmanship to highlight AP's talents as a watchmaker instead of distracting design.