Introduction
The decades following the Second World War marked a period of remarkable technical innovation for Audemars Piguet. While the manufacture had long been celebrated for its complicated pocket watches and elegant dress pieces, the 1950s saw an increased focus on developing sophisticated automatic wristwatches that combined technical ingenuity with the refined aesthetics for which the maison had become renowned. Produced in extremely limited numbers, these early self-winding references remain among the most overlooked chapters in Audemars Piguet's history, yet they laid the foundations for the manufacture's modern reputation.
Produced during the 1950s, the reference 5112 is one of the finest examples of this important era. Housed in an elegant 18K white gold waterproof case, it is powered by one of Audemars Piguet's early automatic movements. This example is made even more significant by its double-signed dial, carrying the name of the prestigious Swiss retailer Gübelin alongside Audemars Piguet. Watches retailed by Gübelin were supplied only to one of Europe's most respected jewellers, and today such co-signed dials are highly prized for the additional layer of provenance they provide.
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Grade
V 8.5
Status
Vetted & Approved
Included
Watch Only
Est. value range
$8,000 – $12,000
The Details
Brand
Audemars Piguet
Dimensions
35mm
Model
Automatic Waterproof
Movement
Automatic Audemars Piguet calibre
Reference
5112
Bracelet
Leather strap
Year
Circa 1955
Condition
Excellent
Material
18K White Gold
Included
Watch only
Dial Color
Silver
THE DIAL
The elegant silvered dial is distinguished by the addition of the Gübelin signature beneath the Audemars Piguet name, reflecting its delivery through one of Switzerland's most prestigious retailers. Applied baton indexes and slender hands reinforce the restrained elegance that defines the finest mid-century dress watches.
THE CONSTRUCTION
The 35mm 18K white gold case perfectly captures the refined proportions of the 1950s, with its clean lines and polished surfaces placing the emphasis firmly on elegance rather than excess. A screw-down case back provides practical robustness thanks to its waterproof properties.
TIMING MACHINE READOUT
This reading was taken (crown down) with a ONEOF Accuracy Boutique Edition timing machine at time of cataloging. It is provided as a courtesy only, and shall not be construed as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Please refer to our terms and conditions of sale for more information.
Condition
Watch is in overall excellent condition. The white gold case shows surface scratches and small nicks consistent with the watch's vintage character. The screw-down case back retains a well-defined serial number stamp. The dial has developed a gentle patina and retains crisp printing, with only a couple of small surface marks. The hands remain very clean. It is fitted with a leather strap and a steel pin buckle.
Our Perspective
Early automatic Audemars Piguet watches remain one of the hidden treasures of post-war Swiss watchmaking. Produced in tiny numbers and rarely encountered on the market, they offer collectors an opportunity to acquire a pivotal chapter in the manufacture's technical history long before the arrival of the Royal Oak. The addition of the coveted Gübelin signature elevates this reference 5112 even further, combining exceptional retailer provenance with one of Audemars Piguet's most elegant mid-century designs.
Justin Gruenberg
Co-founder
