1/14
Sold For

$88,000 USD

28 bids

No reserve
Auction Ended
08/11/22
On Aug 11, 4:07 PM UTC
Lot #1588

Audemars Piguet 5402 Royal Oak A-Series

This auction is subject to a 10% buyer’s premium on top of final bid amount (hammer price).

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Introduction

Released in 1972 and designed by Gerald Genta, watchmaking's most famous designer, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak was the first stainless steel luxury sports watch ever to exist. Released as a tactic to survive the quartz crisis, the Royal Oak can single-handedly be thanked for AP's existence today due to its astounding success, albeit it wasn't an overnight hit. Its sizeable tonneau-shaped case, signature integrated bracelet, octagonal bezel, exposed screws, and steel construction failed to win over collectors until a few years later. Launched in 1972 as a limited series of 1000 pieces, the A-Series ref. 5402 was the first series of Royal Oak to be released. With its 39mm stainless steel case it was quickly nicknamed the “Jumbo” due to how much larger it was compared to other watches from the time. With its ‘Petite Tapisserie’ dial, the A-Series can be identified by the position of its AP logo at 6 o’clock. Today, the Royal Oak is one of the most highly-coveted timepieces in all horology as its previously dismissed design details have permeated across the industry and into watches like the Patek Philippe Nautilus, Vacheron Constantin Overseas, Rolex Oysterquartz, amongst many other legendary timepieces. Offered with a partially tropicalized dial, this example’s dial boasts a beautiful golden hue that matches and accentuates the creamy yellow patina of its iconic luminescent hour markers and hands.

Loupe This Scorecard

Grade

V 8.5

Status

Vetted & Approved

Included

Watch only

Est. value range

$80,000 – $100,000

The Details

Brand

Audemars Piguet

Dimensions

39mm

Model

Royal Oak

Movement

Automatic cal. 2121

Reference

5402

Bracelet

Stainless steel bracelet

Year

ca 1975

Condition

Very good

Material

Stainless steel

Included

Watch only

Dial Color

Black partially tropicalized

THE DIAL

Boasting the Royal Oak's signature 'Petite Tapisserie' dial, this example's dial sports a wonderful golden patina atop the majority of its surface.

THE CONSTRUCTION

While its 39mm diameter certainly may have been imposing back in the 1970s, its incredibly thin 7.2mm case allows the ref. 5402 to wear wonderfully flat and makes it a pleasure on the wrist.

TIMING MACHINE READOUT

This reading was taken (crown down) with a ONEOF Accuracy Boutique Edition timing machine at time of cataloging. It is provided as a courtesy only, and shall not be construed as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Please refer to our terms and conditions of sale for more information.

Condition

Watch is in overall very good condition. Case exhibits light to moderate wear, with surface scratches on many of the surfaces. Case number and engravings on back are clear and visible. Dial has oxidized to a tropical effect, and luminous on hands and dial have aged consistently. The crown on the watches a later service part, with the AP logo engraved. The bracelet has light notching and moderate stretch. It has 19 links total, with one being removable.

Our Perspective

Widely recognized as one of the most iconic timepieces ever produced, the Royal Oak ref. 5402 is perhaps one of the most important watches to ever be released, with its debut reviving Audemars Piguet and leading to the widespread adoption of stainless steel sports watches into most high-end watchmakers' arsenals.

Justin Gruenberg

Co-founder

Lot # 1588

Audemars Piguet 5402 Royal Oak A-Series

Sold

$88,000

Ended
08/11/22