Introduction
Long before the Royal Oak came to define Audemars Piguet for a modern audience, the manufacture produced an extraordinary variety of refined dress watches, frequently in small quantities and often without formal model names. The watches of the 1950s and early 1960s are particularly appealing, combining the restrained aesthetics of post-war Swiss watchmaking with the high-grade movements and finishing expected from one of the great Vallée de Joux manufactures. This 34mm automatic is a particularly elegant example of that tradition.
Executed in 18K yellow gold, the watch pairs a slim three-part case with a beautifully restrained silvered crosshair dial, applied gold baton indexes and central seconds. The crosshair divides the dial into four precisely balanced quadrants, lending an otherwise minimalist design a subtle technical character. Inside is an automatic movement finished with a decorated rotor, demonstrating that the simplicity of the exterior belies the quality of the watchmaking within. Dating to the late 1950s or early 1960s, it is an excellent illustration of Audemars Piguet's understated mid-century production.
Loupe This Scorecard
Grade
V 8.5
Status
Vetted & Approved
Included
Watch Only
Est. value range
$6,000 – $12,000
The Details
Brand
Audemars Piguet
Dimensions
34mm
Model
Automatic Dress Watch
Movement
Automatic
Reference
N/A
Bracelet
Leather strap
Year
Circa late 1950s–early 1960s
Condition
Excellent
Material
18K Yellow Gold
Included
Watch only
Dial Color
Silver
THE DIAL
The silvered dial is defined by its fine crosshair motif, dividing the otherwise minimalist display into four balanced quadrants. Applied gold baton indexes are complemented by matching hands and a slender central seconds hand. With no date or other complication to interrupt the composition, the emphasis is entirely on proportion and clarity.
THE CONSTRUCTION
The 34mm three-part case is executed in 18K yellow gold. Its narrow bezel and slender lugs maximise the visual diameter of the dial, while the relatively thin profile gives the watch the elegant proportions characteristic of Audemars Piguet's mid-century dress watches.
TIMING MACHINE READOUT
This reading was taken (crown down) with a ONEOF Accuracy Boutique Edition timing machine at time of cataloging. It is provided as a courtesy only, and shall not be construed as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Please refer to our terms and conditions of sale for more information.
Condition
Watch is in overall excellent condition. The 18K yellow gold case shows some scratches and light nicks. The hallmarks on the rear of the lugs remain well defined. The case back retains a crisp serial number stamp and shows some light patina to the gold. The dial has some light surface spotting and retains excellent printing. It is fitted with a black leather strap and gold-coloured pin buckle.
Please note: The watch ticks at time of cataloging, but timekeeping is poor and a service is recommended.
Please Note: Due to CITES considerations, if the watch is to be shipped outside of the USA, the exotic skin strap will have to be removed.
Our Perspective
The appeal of watches like this lies in how little they need to announce themselves. There is no famous model name or complication; instead, the quality is expressed through proportion, dial design, precious-metal construction and a finely finished automatic movement. The crosshair dial gives this example just enough personality to distinguish it from a conventional mid-century dress watch, making it an appealing window into a quieter but important chapter of Audemars Piguet history.
Justin Gruenberg
Co-founder
