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Lot #5403

Audemars Piguet Cobra 5403 Blue Diamond Dial 18K YG

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Introduction

The 1970s marked a period of extraordinary creativity for Audemars Piguet, as the manufacture explored new approaches to case design, integrated bracelets and the relationship between fine watchmaking and jewellery. The introduction of the Royal Oak in 1972, designed by Gérald Genta, challenged traditional notions of luxury by placing an exceptionally refined mechanical movement within an unconventional sports watch. Yet the Royal Oak was only one expression of the manufacture's increasingly adventurous design philosophy. Throughout the decade, Audemars Piguet produced a remarkable variety of precious-metal watches with sculptural cases and intricately constructed bracelets, reflecting an era when the boundaries between haute horlogerie and jewellery design were becoming increasingly fluid.

Among the most distinctive of these creations is the Cobra ref. 5403, a striking integrated-bracelet watch that shares its mechanical foundations with the celebrated Royal Oak Jumbo. Housed in an 18K yellow gold case measuring approximately 35mm, the Cobra takes its name from the extraordinary scale-like construction of its bracelet, which flows directly into the case to create an almost continuous surface of articulated gold. This example features a blue dial with diamond-set hour markers and a date aperture at three o'clock, combining the bold decorative character of the period with the refinement of a traditional Audemars Piguet wristwatch. Beneath the dial sits the ultra-thin automatic calibre 2121/1, closely related to the movement that powered the original Royal Oak ref. 5402. With its distinctive bracelet architecture, precious-metal construction and sophisticated movement, the Cobra represents a fascinating alternative expression of Audemars Piguet's design ambitions during the 1970s.

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Grade

V 8.5

Status

Vetted & Approved

Included

Watch Only

Est. value range

$20,000 – $30,000

The Details

Brand

Audemars Piguet

Dimensions

35mm

Model

Cobra

Movement

Automatic Audemars Piguet Calibre 2121/1

Reference

5403

Bracelet

Integrated 18K yellow gold Cobra bracelet

Year

Circa late 1970s

Condition

Excellent

Material

18K Yellow Gold

Included

Watch only

Dial Color

Blue

THE DIAL

THE DIAL

The blue dial features diamond-set hour markers, lending a subtle jewellery element to the otherwise restrained display. A date aperture at three o'clock provides everyday practicality, while the minimalist arrangement allows the distinctive colour and precious-stone detailing to take centre stage.

THE CONSTRUCTION

THE CONSTRUCTION

The 35mm case is crafted from 18K yellow gold and features a screw-down case back. Its relatively restrained circular form provides a counterpoint to the elaborate integrated bracelet, allowing the two elements to function as a single design.

TIMING MACHINE READOUT

TIMING MACHINE READOUT

This reading was taken (crown down) with a ONEOF Accuracy Boutique Edition timing machine at time of cataloging. It is provided as a courtesy only, and shall not be construed as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Please refer to our terms and conditions of sale for more information.

Condition

Watch is in overall excellent condition. The 18K yellow gold case shows surface scratches and small nicks, with some gentle wear to the case sides. The case back shows scuffs around the edge, while the serial stamp remains legible and the hallmark is crisp and well defined. The blue dial exhibits areas of degradation around the outer edge and surrounding most of the diamond hour markers. The hands remain clean. The integrated 18K yellow gold bracelet shows light surface scuffs and marks and fits approximately a 7½” wrist.

Our Perspective

The Cobra is among Audemars Piguet's most distinctive vintage creations, combining the celebrated ultra-thin calibre 2121 with extraordinary bracelet craftsmanship. Its diamond-set blue dial and sculptural gold construction capture the adventurous spirit of 1970s watchmaking in particularly compelling fashion.

Eric Ku

Co-founder