While today famed for their octagonal design elements as best seen in the Royal Oak, Royal Oak Offshore, Royal Oak Concept, Code 11.59 and others, Audemars Piguet have also got a long list of timepieces that broke from that convention and utilized different designs that broke from their design convention in one way shape or form. One such mode is the Huitieme Chronograph that we have here. Launched in the mid-1980s and produced until the late 1990s, the Huitieme Chronograph features a round 40.5mm case with a stepped bezel that features Audemars Piguet’s name engraved at 12 o’clock. While its design does break away from what has since become AP’s typical design language, the Huitieme Chronograph is still an intensely unique and classical timepiece that serves to remind us of AP’s status as a fine watchmaker. Made of both the incredible rare metal tantalum and 18kt rose gold, this ref. 25644TR features a rich gold dial with a cyclops lens over its date aperture at 3 o’clock, small applied golden indices, a trio of sunken subdials for its chronograph functions, a tachymeter scale along its periphery, and tasteful black lettering. With golden hands, indices, and surrounds for its subdials that are seamlessly integrated within its golden dial, the Huitieme Chronograph does not champion legibility by any means, but it does instead champion Audemars Piguet’s daring desire to create timepieces that are profoundly unique and intensely Avant-Garde, even if practicality is somewhat hindered in the process, because while it might be the clearest watch to read, it is certainly one of the most stunning to look at and enjoyable to wear.

While the Huitieme Chronograph was originally known for combining classic chronograph aesthetics with the oversized sensibilities of the modern era, this tantalum and 18kt rose gold variant is all the more special given its unlikely combination of metals.