Introduction
While today famed for their octagonal design elements as best seen in the Royal Oak, Royal Oak Offshore, Royal Oak Concept, Code 11.59 and others, Audemars Piguet have also got a long list of timepieces that broke from that convention and utilized different designs that broke from their design convention in one way shape or form. One such mode is the Huitieme Chronograph that we have here. Launched in the mid-1980s and produced until the late 1990s, the Huitieme Chronograph features a round 40.5mm case with a stepped bezel that features Audemars Piguet’s name engraved at 12 o’clock alongside rather svelte pushers that aim to fade into the case design and give the watch a perfectly circular appearance. While its design does break away from AP’s typical design language, there was one element that the Huitieme Chronograph leans on that was in another of AP’s watches, its integrated bracelet. Here offered with an intricate 18kt yellow gold bracelet, this example features a slightly different lug system to those Huitieme Chronographs that were offered on a leather strap, and thus making it all the most unique, but closer linked to AP’s design language. Featuring a eggshell white dial with a cyclops lens over its date aperture at 3 o’clock, the Huitieme Chronograph is a wonderfully unique chronograph that doesn’t shy away from being different, unique and confident in its own design.
Loupe This Scorecard
Grade
M 9
Status
Vetted & Approved
Included
Watch Only
Est. value range
$8,000 – $12,000
The Details
Brand
Audemars Piguet
Dimensions
40.5mm
Model
Huitieme Chronograph
Movement
Automatic cal. 2126
Reference
25644
Bracelet
18kt yellow gold bracelet
Year
Circa 1990s
Condition
Near-Mint
Material
18kt yellow gold
Included
Watch only
Dial Color
White
THE DIAL
Featuring a stunning eggshell white dial, the Huitieme's display features three subdials with gold inlay that perfectly suits its 18kt yellow gold construction. Furthermore, its cyclops lens highlights its date function which chronographs most typically omit or hide somewhere on the dial.
THE CONSTRUCTION
An unusual watch for Audemars Piguet, the Huitieme boasts an 18kt yellow gold construction with a unique bracelet design, engraved bezel and small pushers that make this watch look unlike anything else the brand has ever produced.
TIMING MACHINE READOUT
This reading was taken (crown down) with a ONEOF Accuracy Boutique Edition timing machine at time of cataloging. It is provided as a courtesy only, and shall not be construed as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Please refer to our terms and conditions of sale for more information.
Condition
The watch is in near-mint condition. The yellow gold stepped case displays some light scratches and marks. The entire case and bracelet have a pleasing age-related patina on the gold. The bezel features a very well-defined Audemars Piguet signature. The case back is crisp, with a clear serial number and hallmarks. The white dial is pristine, with very clean no-lume hands. The yellow gold integrated bracelet is in excellent condition, featuring an AP-signed clasp. It has 13 links (3 removable) and fits an approximately 8" wrist.
Our Perspective
With a design that celebrates its differences compared to the traditional designs of the time, the Huitieme Chronograph's cyclops lens and intricate bracelet make for a timepiece that is unlike not just what AP produced at the time but what most other watchmakers would even dare to create, thus highlighting AP's standing as a truly avant-garde watchmaker.
Eric Ku
Co-founder
