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Lot #5052

Audemars Piguet Huitieme Chronograph 25644TR Tantalum and Rose Gold

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Introduction

While today famed for their octagonal design elements as best seen in the Royal Oak, Royal Oak Offshore, Royal Oak Concept, Code 11.59 and others, Audemars Piguet have also got a long list of timepieces that broke from that convention and utilized different designs that broke from their design convention in one way shape or form. One such model is the Huitieme Chronograph that we have here. Launched in the mid-1980s and produced until the late 1990s, the Huitieme features a round 40.5mm case with a stepped bezel that features Audemars Piguet’s name engraved at 12 o’clock. While its design does break away from what has since become AP’s typical design language, the Huitieme is still an intensely unique and classical timepiece that serves to remind us of AP’s status as a fine watchmaker. Made of the extremely rare metal tantalum and 18kt yellow gold, this two-tone example features a simple grey chronograph dial, to match its tantalum case, with a cyclops lens over its date aperture at 3 o’clock, three gold-trimmed subdials and applied indices that ensure the Huitieme is intensely legible, reserved and under-the-radar, all of which it has remained all of these years later.

Loupe This Scorecard

Grade

M 8.5

Status

Vetted & Approved

Included

Watch Only

Est. value range

$8,000 – $12,000

The Details

Brand

Audemars Piguet

Dimensions

40.5mm x 11mm

Model

Huitieme Chronograph

Movement

Automatic cal. 2126

Reference

25644

Bracelet

Leather strap

Year

Circa 1990

Condition

Excellent

Material

Tantalum and 18kt yellow gold

Included

Watch only

Dial Color

Grey

THE DIAL
THE DIAL

Matching its construction, the ref. 25644 features a vertically brushed grey anthracite dial with yellow gold hour markers, hands and subdial surrounds.

THE CONSTRUCTION
THE CONSTRUCTION

Made of the famously hard and corrosion-resistant metal tantalum and 18kt yellow gold, this ref. 25644 features a two-tone aesthetic that is not often seen in watchmaking and is anchored in tantalum's blue-grey color and accented by yellow gold's bright and warm allure.

TIMING MACHINE READOUT
TIMING MACHINE READOUT

This reading was taken (crown down) with a ONEOF Accuracy Boutique Edition timing machine at time of cataloging. It is provided as a courtesy only, and shall not be construed as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Please refer to our terms and conditions of sale for more information.

Condition

case size: 40.5mm

Watch is in overall excellent condition. The tantalum elements of the case show light surface marks and scuffs, while the case back retains crisp engravings. The yellow gold elements have light surface marks. The pushers and winding crown are excellent. The dial and hands are in near-mint condition, with oxidation visible on the 30-minute register hand. It is fitted with a black leather strap and a yellow gold and tantalum deployant clasp, with light surface scratches to the exposed yellow gold section of the clasp. The strap fits approximately a 7¼” wrist.

Our Perspective

With a design that celebrates its differences compared to the traditional designs of the time, the Huitieme Chronograph's cyclops lens and unique engraved bezel make for a timepiece that is unlike not just what AP produced at the time but what most other watchmakers would even dare to create, thus highlighting AP's standing as a truly avant-garde watchmaker - especially in this two-tone configuration where tantalum and gold are married together.

Eric Ku

Co-founder