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Lot #3231

Audemars Piguet Quantieme Perpetual Calendar 25657PT Blue Tuscan Dial Platinum

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Introduction

Widely renowned for the ever-iconic Royal Oak, Audemars Piguet’s prestigious history as one of the finest watchmakers on Earth is often overlooked in favor for the avant-garde design language they have recently begun to explore. Outside of their modern offerings, some of AP’s vintage timepieces exercise traditional watchmaking, stunning designs, and awe-inspiring craftsmanship, much like the Quantième Perpétuel Automatique ref. 25657 that we have here. Released in 1982 and discontinued in 1993, the ref. 25657 saw the production of 1821 units join its ranks with metals like 18k yellow gold, platinum, and others used over the years. Classically designed, the case features a traditional stepped bezel, short downturned lugs, and thin, elegant case proportions. With its symmetrical dial layout, the ref. 25657 features a perpetual calendar display made up of a day, date, and month subdials and a moon phase subdial at 6 o’clock for a satisfying aesthetic to round off its incredible design. Powered by the automatic cal. 2120/2800 movement, the ref. 25657 uses Jaeger LeCoultre’s iconic ultra-thin cal. 920 base movement, which AP shared with Vacheron Constantin, Patek Philippe, and others. Offered here our example is one of the 128 examples made from platinum, with a stunning blue Tuscan dial with thousands of tiny craters adorning its surface, with its sunken subdials lacking that texture, for a beautiful visual effect.

Loupe This Scorecard

Grade

M 8.5

Status

Vetted & Approved

Included

Service Paper

Est. value range

$40,000 – $60,000

The Details

Brand

Audemars Piguet

Dimensions

36mm x 7.55mm

Model

Quantième Perpétuel Automatique

Movement

Automatic cal. 2120/2800

Reference

25657PT

Bracelet

Leather strap

Year

Circa 1980s

Condition

Very Good

Material

Platinum

Included

Watch and 2020-dated AP service invoice

Dial Color

Bllue (Tuscan)

THE DIAL
THE DIAL

Easily the ref. 2565's most desirable dial, this platinum example features the famed Tuscan blue dial with its hand-hammered texture inspiring AP's latest collaboration with John Mayer.

THE CONSTRUCTION
THE CONSTRUCTION

Measuring just 7.55mm thick, the ref. 25657's svelte 36mm platinum case is an astonishing achievement given the complexity of its movement for the time it was released.

TIMING MACHINE READOUT
TIMING MACHINE READOUT

This reading was taken (crown down) with a ONEOF Accuracy Boutique Edition timing machine at time of cataloging. It is provided as a courtesy only, and shall not be construed as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Please refer to our terms and conditions of sale for more information.

Condition

Watch is in excellent overall condition. Case exhibits wear on the polished bezel, with some fine scratches and marks visible. There are similar marks found on the brushed case sides of the watch. Caseback engravings are crisp and fully legible. The hallmarks remain sharp and well defined. The "Tuscan" finish dial is in excellent condition. There are signs of oxidation on the surface, most visible on the edge around the moonphase and around the 15 to 16th on the days of the month subdial.

Please Note: Due to CITES considerations, if the watch is to be shipped outside of the USA, the exotic skin strap will have to be removed.

Our Perspective

One of the watches to help spur Swiss watchmaking out of the depths of the Quartz Crisis and revive traditional artistry, it is timepieces like the Quantième Perpétuel Automatique ref. 25657 that earned AP its place within the Holy Trinity and made complicated watchmaking appreciated in the 1980s again. Additionally, with its tuscan blue dial and platinum construction, the ref. 25657PT is rarest and the most desirable variant of this iconic collection.

Justin Gruenberg

Co-founder