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Lot #5409

Audemars Piguet Quantième Perpétuel 5557CA Two-Tone 18K YG and WG

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Introduction

Throughout the 1970s and 1980s, Audemars Piguet pursued two seemingly contrasting ambitions: the development of increasingly sophisticated mechanical complications and an adventurous approach to contemporary watch design. The Royal Oak, introduced in 1972, demonstrated the manufacture's willingness to challenge established conventions, while its ultra-thin perpetual calendars helped sustain the tradition of complicated mechanical watchmaking during the quartz crisis. Introduced in 1978, the automatic perpetual calendar calibre 2120/2800 was a remarkable technical achievement, combining a sophisticated calendar mechanism with an exceptionally slender movement. Watches powered by this calibre became an important part of Audemars Piguet's identity, and the manufacture explored a fascinating variety of case shapes, precious-metal combinations and elaborate bracelets to house them.

Dating to the early 1980s, this ref. 5557CA represents a particularly distinctive expression of this creative period. Its approximately 36mm octagonal case combines white gold with a stepped yellow gold bezel, creating an elegant contrast between the two precious metals. The satin-finished grey dial features applied yellow gold hour markers and champagne-toned subsidiary registers displaying the day, date and month, together with a moonphase indication at six o'clock. Beneath the dial sits the automatic calibre 2120/2800, whose ultra-thin construction allows the watch to retain an exceptionally refined profile despite the complexity of its perpetual calendar. Perhaps most striking is the integrated bracelet, an elaborate two-tone basketweave design incorporating yellow and white gold with textured, bark-finished details along the sides of the links.

Loupe This Scorecard

Grade

V 8.5

Status

Vetted & Approved

Included

Watch Only

Est. value range

$30,000 – $50,000

The Details

Brand

Audemars Piguet

Dimensions

36mm

Model

Quantième Perpétuel

Movement

Automatic Audemars Piguet Calibre 2120/2800

Reference

5557CA

Bracelet

Integrated two-tone 18K yellow and white gold bracelet

Year

Circa Early 1980s

Condition

Excellent

Material

18K Yellow Gold and 18K White Gold

Included

Watch only

Dial Color

Satin Grey

THE DIAL

THE DIAL

The satin-finished grey dial features applied yellow gold hour markers and matching pencil-style hands, complemented by champagne-toned subsidiary registers. These display the perpetual calendar's day, date and month indications, while a moonphase aperture occupies the six o'clock position. Blued steel calendar hands provide an elegant contrast, enhancing legibility without compromising the refined composition.

THE CONSTRUCTION

THE CONSTRUCTION

The octagonal case combines 18K white gold with a stepped 18K yellow gold bezel, creating a distinctive two-tone interpretation of Audemars Piguet's geometric design language. Measuring approximately 36mm across, its slim profile is made possible by the ultra-thin perpetual calendar movement. The contrast between the two metals gives the watch an architectural character without sacrificing the elegance expected of a complicated dress watch.

TIMING MACHINE READOUT

TIMING MACHINE READOUT

This reading was taken (crown down) with a ONEOF Accuracy Boutique Edition timing machine at time of cataloging. It is provided as a courtesy only, and shall not be construed as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Please refer to our terms and conditions of sale for more information.

Condition

Watch is in overall excellent condition. The 18K white gold case shows surface scratches and light marks, while the case back retains well-defined engravings. The 18K yellow gold stepped bezel shows some small nicks but remains well defined. The winding crown and calendar correctors are in excellent condition. The dial is in excellent condition, with only some very light marks to the calendar sub-dials. The hands remain clean. The integrated two-tone 18K yellow and white gold bracelet shows surface scuffs, while the bark finish to the sides of the links remains well defined. The AP emblem on the clasp is also well defined. The bracelet is fitted with 18 links and measures approximately 8 1/16” in total length.

Please note: The watch ticks at time of cataloging, but timekeeping is poor and a service is recommended.

Our Perspective

The ref. 5557CA brings together two defining elements of Audemars Piguet's heritage: sophisticated perpetual calendar watchmaking and adventurous precious-metal design. Its ultra-thin movement, distinctive octagonal case and extraordinary two-tone basketweave bracelet make it a particularly compelling vintage creation.

Eric Ku

Co-founder