Introduction
When Audemars Piguet introduced the Royal Oak in 1972, it fundamentally changed the relationship between luxury watchmaking and the materials traditionally associated with fine horology. Designed by Gérald Genta, the original Royal Oak combined the finishing and mechanical sophistication of a precious-metal watch with the unconventional choice of stainless steel. Its octagonal bezel, exposed screws and integrated bracelet established a design language that would become one of the most influential in modern watchmaking. Over the following decades, Audemars Piguet explored numerous interpretations of the Royal Oak, experimenting with case dimensions, complications, dial treatments and increasingly unusual combinations of materials. Among the most intriguing of these developments was the introduction of tantalum, a dense, corrosion-resistant metal with a distinctive blue-grey appearance that presented considerable challenges in machining and finishing.
Dating to the 1990s, this Royal Oak ref. 14800TR represents a particularly distinctive interpretation of Genta's original concept. Its 36mm case combines the dark, understated appearance of tantalum with the warmth of 18K rose gold, used for the familiar octagonal bezel and winding crown. The salmon-coloured dial provides a further point of distinction, dispensing with the traditional Grande Tapisserie pattern in favour of a smooth surface that complements the unusual combination of metals. Unlike the classic integrated-bracelet Royal Oak, the ref. 14800TR features conventional-style lugs designed to accommodate a leather strap, giving the watch a subtly different character while retaining the collection's unmistakable architectural identity. Powered by the automatic calibre 2125 and accompanied by its original two-tone rose gold deployant buckle, this unusual reference demonstrates the creativity and technical ambition that characterised Audemars Piguet's Royal Oak collection during the 1990s.
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Grade
M 8.5
Status
Vetted & Approved
Included
Watch Only
Est. value range
$10,000 – $15,000
The Details
Brand
Audemars Piguet
Dimensions
36mm
Model
Royal Oak
Movement
Automatic Audemars Piguet Calibre 2125
Reference
14800TR
Bracelet
Leather strap
Year
Circa 1990s
Condition
Excellent
Material
Tantalum and 18K Rose Gold
Included
Watch only
Dial Color
Salmon
THE DIAL
The salmon-coloured dial is an unusual departure from the familiar textured surfaces associated with the Royal Oak collection. Its smooth finish creates a restrained appearance, allowing the warm tone of the dial to complement the rose gold bezel. Applied hour markers and matching hands maintain the legibility and elegant simplicity of the original Royal Oak design.
THE CONSTRUCTION
The 36mm case combines tantalum, with its characteristic dark blue-grey colour, and 18K rose gold, used for the octagonal bezel and winding crown. Tantalum's density and resistance to corrosion make it an unusual and technically demanding material in watchmaking. The contrast between the two metals gives this reference a distinctive appearance.
TIMING MACHINE READOUT
This reading was taken (crown down) with a ONEOF Accuracy Boutique Edition timing machine at time of cataloging. It is provided as a courtesy only, and shall not be construed as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Please refer to our terms and conditions of sale for more information.
Condition
Watch is in overall excellent condition. The tantalum case shows surface marks and small scratches, with some scratches on the 18K rose gold bezel. The case back retains well-defined engravings. The dial is in near-mint condition, while the hands remain clean. It is fitted with a brown leather strap and original two-tone tantalum and 18K rose gold deployant clasp.
Please note: The watch ticks at time of cataloging, but timekeeping is poor and a service is recommended.
Please Note: Due to CITES considerations, if the watch is to be shipped outside of the USA, the exotic skin strap will have to be removed.
Our Perspective
The ref. 14800TR is one of the more unconventional Royal Oak variations, combining the unusual pairing of tantalum and rose gold with a smooth salmon dial and traditional strap construction. A fascinating example of Audemars Piguet's experimental approach during the 1990s.
Justin Gruenberg
Co-founder
