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Lot #3349

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 25636RP Quantieme Perpetual Calendar Skeleton Dial 18k RG and Platinum

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Introduction

Released in 1972 and designed by Gerald Genta, watchmaking's most famous designer, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak was the first stainless steel luxury sports watch ever to exist. Released as a tactic to survive the quartz crisis, the Royal Oak can single-handedly be thanked for AP's existence today due to its astounding success, albeit it wasn't an overnight hit. Its sizeable tonneau-shaped case, signature integrated bracelet, octagonal bezel, exposed screws, and steel construction failed to win over collectors until a few years later. Today, the Royal Oak is one of the most highly-coveted timepieces in all horology as its previously dismissed design details have permeated across the industry and into watches like the Patek Philippe Nautilus, Vacheron Constantin Overseas, Rolex Oysterquartz, amongst many other legendary timepieces.

In 1983, the Royal Oak was moved into the realm of true high horology and the first Perpetual Calendar version of the Royal Oak was released – the ref. 5554. The world’s thinnest model of its kind and equipped to account for all of the calendar's permutations and variations for 117 years until 2100, it was a mechanical marvel. From there on, several perpetual calendar Royal Oak variants were launched, one of which we have here, the ref. 25636RP. Released in 1986, and retaining the Royal Oak Jumbo’s 39mm construction, the ref. 25636 made for a familiar presence on the wrist of Royal Oak collectors. However, its complicated automatic cal. 2120/2800 made sure that it was clearly not a normal Royal Oak. The first Royal Oak to feature a leap year indicator, its quartet of subdials ensured that this Quantieme Perpetual was a remarkable feat of horological engineering. Offered with a host of different possible dial configurations, the example we have here boasts a stunning skeletonized dial that adds a layer of depth to its stunning and complex display that perfectly suits its unique 18kt pink gold and platinum two-tone construction. Launched in 1994 and produced until 1997, the ref. 25636RP that we have here is one of the rarest variant from within an already extremely exclusive subsection of the Royal Oak that sold no more than 156 units spread across all of its different dial and material configurations. AP Chronicles has confirmed that 24 pieces were made total of the 25636RP.

Loupe This Scorecard

Grade

M 8.5

Status

Vetted & Approved

Included

Watch Only

Est. value range

$150,000 – $250,000

The Details

Brand

Audemars Piguet

Dimensions

39mm x 8.8mm

Model

Royal Oak Quantieme Perpetual Skeleton

Movement

Automatic cal. 2120/2800

Reference

25636RP

Bracelet

18kt pink gold and platinum

Year

Circa 1994 to 1997

Condition

Exellent

Material

18kt pink gold and platinum

Included

Watch only

Dial Color

Skeletonized

THE DIAL
THE DIAL

Boasting a skeletonized display that provides an unencumbered view of its complex automatic cal. 2120/2800 movement beneath, the ref. 25636RP's dial retains only salmon-colored subdial registers that perfectly match its 18kt pink gold hands and construction.

THE CONSTRUCTION
THE CONSTRUCTION

Introduced to the ref. 25636 as an option in 1994 and produced until 1997, the two-tone 18kt pink gold and platinum construction of this example is amongst the rarest variants of the ref. 25636, with a confirmed production of 24 pcs total.

TIMING MACHINE READOUT
TIMING MACHINE READOUT

This reading was taken (crown down) with a ONEOF Accuracy Boutique Edition timing machine at time of cataloging. It is provided as a courtesy only, and shall not be construed as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Please refer to our terms and conditions of sale for more information.

Condition

Watch is in excellent overall condition. Case shows light overall wear, with a few marks on the platinum bezel surface and edge, as well as some small marks visible on the rose gold case. The case has nicely chamfered edges, and no significant nicks or scratches. The original skeletonized crystal dial has no cracks and little to no visible signs of aging. The platinum and rose gold band has 21 links total, 4 of which are removable. It fits a 7 1/2" wrist and shows little stretch.

Our Perspective

Aesthetically stimulating and horologically magnificent, the ref. 25636RP is amongst the crowning jewels of the Royal Oak Quantieme Perpetual famiy with its stunning skeletonized dial, openworked ultra-thin automatic movement, and wonderful marriage of two metals that are seldom paired together.

Eric Ku

Co-founder