Introduction
Released in 1972 and designed by Gerald Genta, watchmaking's most famous designer, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak was the first stainless steel luxury sports watch ever to exist. Released as a tactic to survive the quartz crisis, the Royal Oak can single-handedly be thanked for AP's existence today due to its astounding success, albeit it wasn't an overnight hit. Its sizeable tonneau-shaped case, signature integrated bracelet, octagonal bezel, exposed screws, and steel construction failed to win over collectors until a few years later. Launched in 1972 as a limited series of 1000 pieces, the A-Series ref. 5402 was the first series of Royal Oak to be released. With its 39mm stainless steel case it was quickly nicknamed the “Jumbo” due to how much larger it was compared to other watches from the time. Today, the Royal Oak is one of the most highly-coveted timepieces in all horology as its previously dismissed design details have permeated across the industry and into watches like the Patek Philippe Nautilus, Vacheron Constantin Overseas, Rolex Oysterquartz, amongst many other legendary timepieces. Offered with a partially tropicalized dial, this example’s dial boasts a beautiful golden hue that matches and accentuates the creamy yellow patina of its iconic luminescent hour markers and hands.
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Grade
V 8.5
Status
Vetted & Approved
Included
Watch Only
Est. value range
$30,000 – $50,000
The Details
Brand
Audemars Piguet
Dimensions
39mm x 7mm
Model
Royal Oak
Movement
Automatic cal. 2121
Reference
5402
Bracelet
Stainless steel integrated bracelet
Year
Circa late-1970s to early 1980s
Condition
Very good
Material
Stainless steel
Included
Watch only
Dial Color
Black partially tropicalized
THE DIAL
Boasting the Royal Oak's signature 'Petite Tapisserie' dial, this example's dial sports a wonderful golden patina atop the majority of its center. Additionally, this example boasts the sought-after "AP-down" dial whereby its applied AP logo is positioned at 6 o'clock; famously like the A-series. This is sparingly seen in the B and C-series.
THE CONSTRUCTION
While its 39mm diameter certainly may have been imposing back in the 1970s, its incredibly thin 7.2mm case allows the ref. 5402 to wear wonderfully flat and makes it a pleasure on the wrist.
TIMING MACHINE READOUT
This reading was taken (crown down) with a ONEOF Accuracy Boutique Edition timing machine at time of cataloging. It is provided as a courtesy only, and shall not be construed as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Please refer to our terms and conditions of sale for more information.
Condition
Watch is in very good overall condition. Case shows moderate signs of wear, with soft chamfers on the edges and some surface wear. Bezel has marks visible on the brushed surface, with some edge dings visible on the edge between 7 and 8 o'clock. The dial has oxidiation on the surface in a circular radiating pattern. Hand luminous has some cracks and darkening. Watch comes on a bracelet with 21 links total, 4 of which are removable. There is moderate wear on the band, with some stretch and soft edges.
Our Perspective
Widely recognized as one of the most iconic timepieces ever produced, the Royal Oak ref. 5402 is perhaps one of the most important watches to ever be released, with its debut reviving Audemars Piguet and leading to the widespread adoption of stainless steel sports watches into most high-end watchmakers' arsenals.
Justin Gruenberg
Co-founder
