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Lot #2539

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 5402BA Jumbo 18K YG

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Introduction

Released in 1972 and designed by Gerald Genta, watchmaking's most famous designer, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak was the first stainless steel luxury sports watch ever to exist. Released as a tactic to survive the quartz crisis, the Royal Oak can single-handedly be thanked for AP's existence today due to its astounding success, albeit it wasn't an overnight hit. Its sizeable tonneau-shaped case, signature integrated bracelet, octagonal bezel, exposed screws, and steel construction failed to win over collectors until a few years later. Launched in 1972 as a limited series of 1000 pieces, the A-Series ref. 5402 was the first series of Royal Oak to be released. With its 39mm stainless steel case it was quickly nicknamed the “Jumbo” due to how much larger it was compared to other watches from the time. A handful of years later, in 1977, AP decided to expand the ref. 5402 and release an 18kt yellow gold version; the ref. 5402BA, which is what we have here. Featuring all of the same design details as its stainless steel siblings, this new reference expanded the Royal Oak into the realm of luxury that Audemars Piguet was always, and still is, known for. Today, the Royal Oak is one of the most highly-coveted timepieces in all horology as its previously dismissed design details have permeated across the industry and into watches like the Patek Philippe Nautilus, Vacheron Constantin Overseas, Rolex Oysterquartz, amongst many other legendary timepieces.

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Grade

V 8.5

Status

Vetted & Approved

Included

Watch Only

Est. value range

$80,000 – $120,000

The Details

Brand

Audemars Piguet

Dimensions

39mm

Model

Royal Oak

Movement

Automatic cal. 2121

Reference

5402BA

Bracelet

18kt yellow gold bracelet

Year

Circa 1979

Condition

Excellent

Material

18kt yellow gold

Included

Watch only

Dial Color

Grey

THE DIAL
THE DIAL

Boasting the Royal Oak's signature 'Petite Tapisserie' texture, this example's grey dial perfectly contrasts the bright exuberance of its 18kt yellow gold surroundings.

THE CONSTRUCTION
THE CONSTRUCTION

While its 39mm diameter certainly may have been imposing back in the 1970s, its incredibly thin 7.2mm case allows the ref. 5402BA to wear wonderfully flat and makes it a pleasure on the wrist. However, the sheer heft of its "Jumbo" case combined with its bracelet would not have been familiar with collectors at the time, no matter how thin it was.

TIMING MACHINE READOUT
TIMING MACHINE READOUT

This reading was taken (crown down) with a ONEOF Accuracy Boutique Edition timing machine at time of cataloging. It is provided as a courtesy only, and shall not be construed as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Please refer to our terms and conditions of sale for more information.

Condition

Watch is in excellent overall condition. Case has been previously polished and has flat brushes surfaces and sharp corners. Minor wear visible in some of the corners and some small marks visible on the surface. The gasket around the bezel is degrading and is starring to protrude out more than it should. Dial in excellent condition. Some oxidation visible on the tapisserie suface. Luminous indexes are discolored and hands are slightly lighter in tone. Caseback engravings are worn but still fully legible. Bracelet has 18 links tota, with light stretch.

Our Perspective

Widely recognized as one of the most iconic timepieces ever produced, the Royal Oak ref. 5402 is perhaps one of the most important watches to ever be released, with its debut reviving Audemars Piguet and leading to the widespread adoption of stainless steel sports watches into most high-end watchmakers' arsenals. Additionally, the yellow gold ref. 5402BA combined the Royal Oak's avant-garde design with the luxurious sense of opulence that AP would have been associated with at the time, as they still are of course.

Justin Gruenberg

Co-founder