Lot #4521
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 5402BC Jumbo Diamond Dial 18k WG with Extract
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Introduction
Released in 1972 and designed by Gerald Genta, watchmaking's most famous designer, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak was the first stainless steel luxury sports watch ever to exist. Released as a tactic to survive the quartz crisis, the Royal Oak can single-handedly be thanked for AP's existence today due to its astounding success, albeit it wasn't an overnight hit. Its sizeable tonneau-shaped case, signature integrated bracelet, octagonal bezel, exposed screws, and steel construction failed to win over collectors until a few years later. Launched in 1972 as a limited series of 1000 pieces, the A-Series ref. 5402 was the first series of Royal Oak to be released. With its 39mm stainless steel case it was quickly nicknamed the “Jumbo” due to how much larger it was compared to other watches from the time. A handful of years later, in 1978, AP decided to expand the ref. 5402 and release an 18kt white gold version; the ref. 5402BC, just one year after introducing the 18kt yellow gold ref. 5402BA. Offered here, the ref. 5402BC features all of the same design details as its stainless steel siblings, but this new reference expanded the Royal Oak into the realm of luxury that Audemars Piguet was always, and still is, known for. A rare watch on account of how few sold (876 examples) due to its expense and visual similarity to stainless steel, the ref. 5402BC is the ultimate sleeper hit. Today, the Royal Oak is one of the most highly-coveted timepieces in all horology as its previously dismissed design details have permeated across the industry and into watches like the Patek Philippe Nautilus, Vacheron Constantin Overseas, Rolex Oysterquartz, amongst many other legendary timepieces.
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Grade
V 8.5
Status
Vetted & Approved
Included
Extract of the Archives, Service Documents
Est. value range
$80,000 – $120,000
The Details
Brand
Audemars Piguet
Dimensions
39mm
Model
Royal Oak "Jumbo"
Movement
Automatic cal. 2121
Reference
5402BC
Bracelet
18kt white gold bracelet
Year
Circa 1980
Condition
Excellent
Material
18kt white gold
Included
Watch, 2017-dated service invoice, and Archive Extract
Dial Color
Black
THE DIAL
Boasting the Royal Oak's signature 'Petite Tapisserie' texture, this example's dark black diamond-set dial perfectly contrasts the bright exuberance of its 18kt white gold surroundings.
THE CONSTRUCTION
While its 39mm diameter certainly may have been imposing back in the 1970s, its incredibly thin 7.2mm case allows the ref. 5402BC to wear wonderfully flat and makes it a pleasure on the wrist. However, the sheer heft of its "Jumbo" case combined with its bracelet would not have been familiar with collectors at the time, no matter how thin it was.
TIMING MACHINE READOUT
This reading was taken (crown down) with a ONEOF Accuracy Boutique Edition timing machine at time of cataloging. It is provided as a courtesy only, and shall not be construed as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Please refer to our terms and conditions of sale for more information.
Condition
Watch is in overall excellent condition. The white gold case shows light surface scratches and marks, with a few small nicks visible along the rear case edges, while the case back retains well-defined engravings. The diamond hour petite tapisserie dial remains near mint, and the hands are very clean. It is fitted with a white gold bracelet showing light surface marks and negligible play between the links. The bracelet is fitted with 18 links, 1 of which is removable, and fits approximately a 6¾” wrist. Comes complete with box, archive extract, and full service documentation from 2017.
Our Perspective
Widely recognized as one of the most iconic timepieces ever produced, the Royal Oak ref. 5402 is perhaps one of the most important watches to ever be released, with its debut reviving Audemars Piguet and leading to the widespread adoption of stainless steel sports watches into most high-end watchmakers' arsenals. Additionally, the white gold ref. 5402BC combined the Royal Oak's avant-garde design with the luxurious sense of opulence that AP would have been associated with at the time, as they still are, of course.
Justin Gruenberg
Co-founder
