Introduction
Few watches have changed the course of modern watchmaking as profoundly as the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. Introduced in 1972 and designed by the legendary Gérald Genta, it challenged every convention of luxury watchmaking by presenting a high-end sports watch crafted in stainless steel, complete with an integrated bracelet, exposed bezel screws and an unapologetically industrial aesthetic. Although initially met with scepticism, the Royal Oak would go on to redefine the luxury sports watch category and ultimately secure Audemars Piguet's future during the uncertainty of the Quartz Crisis. Today, it stands as one of the most influential wristwatches ever created.
Following the success of the original steel reference 5402ST, Audemars Piguet expanded the collection in 1977 with the introduction of the reference 5402BA in 18K yellow gold. Retaining the celebrated 39mm "Jumbo" proportions and ultra-thin profile of the original, the yellow gold version transformed the Royal Oak into an altogether more opulent proposition while preserving every aspect of Gérald Genta's revolutionary design. Powered by the legendary calibre 2121, one of the thinnest full-rotor automatic movements ever produced, the 5402BA perfectly balances technical sophistication with precious-metal luxury. By combining the Royal Oak's pioneering architecture with the warmth and presence of solid gold, the reference has become one of the most desirable vintage Royal Oaks and an important milestone in the evolution of the luxury sports watch.
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Grade
V 8.5
Status
Vetted & Approved
Included
Watch Only
Est. value range
$40,000 – $60,000
The Details
Brand
Audemars Piguet
Dimensions
39mm
Model
Royal Oak Jumbo
Movement
Automatic Audemars Piguet calibre 2121
Reference
5402BA
Bracelet
Integrated 18K Yellow Gold bracelet
Year
Circa 1979
Condition
Excellent
Material
18K Yellow Gold
Included
Watch only
Dial Color
Grey
THE DIAL
The signature grey Petite Tapisserie dial provides a subtle contrast to the warmth of the 18K yellow gold case and bracelet. Applied gold baton hour markers and slender hands preserve the clean architectural balance that has become synonymous with the Royal Oak, while the finely engraved dial texture adds depth without distracting from Gérald Genta's iconic design.
THE CONSTRUCTION
The 39mm case measures just 7.2mm thick, a remarkable achievement considering its integrated bracelet construction and automatic movement. The sharply faceted octagonal bezel, integrated bracelet and alternating brushed and polished finishes remain as striking today as they were in 1972, while execution in solid 18K yellow gold adds an unmistakable sense of luxury to one of watchmaking's most enduring designs.
TIMING MACHINE READOUT
This reading was taken (crown down) with a ONEOF Accuracy Boutique Edition timing machine at time of cataloging. It is provided as a courtesy only, and shall not be construed as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Please refer to our terms and conditions of sale for more information.
Condition
Watch is in overall excellent condition. The yellow gold case shows light surface scratches and scuffs across the case and bezel. The case back retains a well-defined watch number, with the "Royal Oak" engraving slightly faded and light wear to the screw heads. The hallmark to the reverse of the case remains well defined. The grey Petite Tapisserie dial is in excellent condition, with a few minor surface marks, while the hands show some discolouration to the luminous material. The integrated yellow gold bracelet shows light surface marks and light play between the links. The bracelet is fitted with 20 links, 1 of which is removable, and fits approximately a 7” wrist.
Our Perspective
The Royal Oak 5402BA represents a pivotal moment in Audemars Piguet's history, demonstrating that Gérald Genta's revolutionary sports watch could be just as compelling in precious metal as it was in steel. Today, collectors increasingly recognise the yellow gold Jumbo as one of the defining references of the early Royal Oak lineage, combining exceptional mechanical pedigree with one of the most influential case and bracelet designs ever conceived. Elegant yet unmistakably bold, the 5402BA remains a cornerstone of vintage Audemars Piguet collecting.
Eric Ku
Co-founder
