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Lot #1851

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo 5402ST A Series

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Introduction

Released in 1972 and designed by Gerald Genta, watchmaking's most famous designer, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak was the first stainless steel luxury sports watch ever to exist. Released as a tactic to survive the quartz crisis, the Royal Oak can single-handedly be thanked for AP's existence today due to its astounding success, albeit it wasn't an overnight hit. Its sizeable tonneau-shaped case, signature integrated bracelet, octagonal bezel, exposed screws, and steel construction failed to win over collectors until a few years later. Launched in 1972 as a limited series of 1000 pieces, the A-Series ref. 5402 was the first series of Royal Oak to be released. With its 39mm stainless steel case it was quickly nicknamed the “Jumbo” due to how much larger it was compared to other watches from the time. With its ‘Petite Tapisserie’ dial, the A-Series can be identified by the position of its AP logo at 6 o’clock. Today, the Royal Oak is one of the most highly-coveted timepieces in all horology as its previously dismissed design details have permeated across the industry and into watches like the Patek Philippe Nautilus, Vacheron Constantin Overseas, Rolex Oysterquartz, amongst many other legendary timepieces. Offered with a partially tropicalized dial, this example’s dial boasts a beautiful golden hue that matches and accentuates the creamy yellow patina of its iconic luminescent hour markers and hands.

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Grade

V 8

Status

Vetted & Approved

Included

Watch Only

Est. value range

$80,000 – $100,000

The Details

Brand

Audemars Piguet

Dimensions

39mm

Model

Royal Oak

Movement

Automatic cal. 2121

Reference

5402ST

Bracelet

Stainless steel bracelet

Year

1972

Condition

Very good

Material

Stainless steel

Included

Watch only

Dial Color

Black

THE DIAL

Boasting the Royal Oak's signature 'Petite Tapisserie' dial, this example's dial sports a wonderful golden patina that is beginning to appear from beneath its surface.

THE CONSTRUCTION

While its 39mm diameter certainly may have been imposing back in the 1970s, its incredibly thin 7.2mm case allows the ref. 5402 to wear wonderfully flat and makes it a pleasure on the wrist.

TIMING MACHINE READOUT

This reading was taken (crown down) with a ONEOF Accuracy Boutique Edition timing machine at time of cataloging. It is provided as a courtesy only, and shall not be construed as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Please refer to our terms and conditions of sale for more information.

Condition

Watch is in very good overall condition. Case is in good overall condition, with some surface wear and scratches. The caseback has porosity and corrosion around a few of the screw holes as shown in the images. There is also light porosity visible on the 3 o'clock side of the case. Bezel has small nicks and scratches. Dial shows signs of oxidation, with some gold color showing thru the tapisserie pattern. Tritium indexes are discolored and hands are similarly toned with the dial indexes. The bracelet has 22 links total, 6 removable. There is light stretch on the band.

Our Perspective

Widely recognized as one of the most iconic timepieces ever produced, the Royal Oak ref. 5402 is perhaps one of the most important watches to ever be released, with its debut reviving Audemars Piguet and leading to the widespread adoption of stainless steel sports watches into most high-end watchmakers' arsenals. Additionally, A-Series examples like ours here are the pinnacle of the ref. 5402 collection, with their production marking the beginning of the Royal Oak and the beginning of the horological revolution that gave Swiss watchmaking its second lease of life.

Justin Gruenberg

Co-founder