1/13
Lot #2573

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar White Dial 25820ST.00.0944ST.03

How do I bid? Start here

Introduction

Released in 1972 and designed by Gerald Genta, watchmaking's most famous designer, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak was the first stainless steel luxury sports watch ever to exist. Released as a tactic to survive the quartz crisis, the Royal Oak can single-handedly be thanked for AP's existence today due to its astounding success, albeit it wasn't an overnight hit. Its sizeable tonneau-shaped case, signature integrated bracelet, octagonal bezel, exposed screws, and steel construction failed to win over collectors until a few years later. Today, the Royal Oak is one of the most highly-coveted timepieces in all horology as its previously dismissed design details have permeated across the industry and into watches like the Patek Philippe Nautilus, Vacheron Constantin Overseas, Rolex Oysterquartz, amongst many other legendary timepieces.


In 1983, the Royal Oak was moved into the realm of true high horology and the first Perpetual Calendar version of the Royal Oak was released – the ref. 5554. The world’s thinnest model of its kind and equipped to account for all of the calendar's permutations and variations for 117 years until 2100, it was a mechanical marvel. From there on, several perpetual calendar Royal Oak variants were launched, one of which we have here, the ref. 25820. Released in 1998, and retaining the Royal Oak Jumbo’s 39mm stainless steel construction, the ref. 25820ST made for a familiar presence on the wrist of Royal Oak collectors. However, its complicated automatic cal. 2120/2800 made sure that it was clearly not a normal Royal Oak. The first Royal Oak to feature a leap year indicator, its quartet of subdials ensured that this Quantieme Perpetual was a remarkable feat of horological engineering. Offered with a host of different possible dial configurations, the example we have here boasts a stunning silver dial with the Royal Oak’s signature Grande Tapisserie engraving that adds another layer of depth to its stunning monochromatic display that perfectly suits its stainless steel construction.

Loupe This Scorecard

Grade

M 8.5

Status

Vetted & Approved

Included

Watch Only

Est. value range

$70,000 – $100,000

The Details

Brand

Audemars Piguet

Dimensions

39mm

Model

Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar

Movement

Automatic cal. 2120/2800

Reference

25820ST.00.0944ST.03

Bracelet

Stainless steel bracelet

Year

Circa 2000

Condition

Excellent

Material

Stainless steel

Included

Watch only

Dial Color

Silver

THE DIAL
THE DIAL

Featuring a silver dial with four subdials and the first leap year indicator on a Royal Oak, the ref. 25820ST's display is complex yet legible. Additionally, with its Grande Tapisserie, it is elegantly finished and easily recognisable.

THE CONSTRUCTION
THE CONSTRUCTION

Just as thick as a modern Royal Oak ref. 15202, the ref. 25820ST's 39mm stainless steel case stands at just 10mm tall, as per AP's dedication to creating ultra-thin timepieces. This ensures that its presence on the wrist is incredibly comfortable, even if it is powered by an incredibly complex movement.

TIMING MACHINE READOUT
TIMING MACHINE READOUT

This reading was taken (crown down) with a ONEOF Accuracy Boutique Edition timing machine at time of cataloging. It is provided as a courtesy only, and shall not be construed as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Please refer to our terms and conditions of sale for more information.

Condition

Watch is in excellent overall condition. Case exhibits a few minor scratches, but has sharp edges and crisp lugs. Dial in excellent condition, with light signs of aging around some of the applied indexes. Bracelet comes with 20 links, 2 of which are removable. There is light stretch.

Our Perspective

A sports watch that easily made the move into high horology, the Royal Oak has become the ultimate vehicle to showcase AP's horological talents over the years, and the ref. 25820ST exhibits them confidently and beautifully.

Justin Gruenberg

Co-founder