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Lot #1113

Audemars Piguet Stainless Steel 5281

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Introduction

A rare watch basking in the glory of sophisticated and refined 1960s horological design, the Audemars Piguet ref. 5281 is revered for its robust construction and elegant aesthetic. While it would easily slot into AP’s lineup today, the ref. 5281 was unusual in the 1960s due to its screw-down waterproof caseback and unusually large 36mm stainless steel case. With its satin-brushed silver dial and understated symmetrical design, the ref. 5281’s date aperture punctuates the dial and brings another useful piece of functionality to the watch that can only be appreciated. Powered by the legendary AP cal. 2072 – itself based on a Jaeger LeCoultre ebauche used by Vacheron Constantin and Patek Philippe, the ref. 5281 features all of the fine finishings you might expect along with a robust shock absorption system that combines with its water-resistant screw-down caseback resulting in a watch that was strangely utilitarian for a dress watch hailing from the late 1960s. As such, the ref. 5281 is a vintage watch capable of daily wear should this example’s new owner be so inclined.

Loupe This Scorecard

Grade

V 9

Status

Vetted & Approved

Included

Watch Only

Est. value range

$10,000 – $15,000

The Details

Brand

Audemars Piguet

Dimensions

36mm

Model

Stainless Steel

Movement

Self-Winding AP Cal. 2072

Reference

5281

Bracelet

Original Leather Strap

Year

Late 1960s

Condition

Near-Mint

Material

Stainless Steel

Included

Watch Only

Dial Color

Silver

THE DIAL

While appearing black polished, the ref. 5281's hour markers, in fact, feature black enamel inlay that pop against the backdrop of the timepiece's silver dial.

THE CASE

An unusual inclusion for a dress watch in the 1960s, the ref. 5281's screw-down case features six notches for tools to fit into for ease of access. This angle also highlights the ref. 5281's distinctive lug shape - a hallmark piece of dress watch design.

TIMING MACHINE READOUT

This reading was taken (crown down) with a ONEOF Accuracy Boutique Edition timing machine at time of cataloging. It is provided as a courtesy only, and shall not be construed as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Please refer to our terms and conditions of sale for more information.

Condition

The overall condition is near-mint. Original silver dial appears to be in like-new condition. A few light abrasions present on the plexi crystal. Case is very sharp with no signs of previous polishing. Minor surface scratches can be seen on the caseback. Serial number is clearly visible. Watch retains the original Audemars Piguet suede strap and correct "AW" buckle.

Our Perspective

Blending 1960s dress watch design with the same utility and function that we cherish in today's watch collecting community, the Audemars Piguet "Calatrava" ref. 5281 is a splendid merger between vintage aesthetics and modern utility.

Eric Ku

Co-founder