Famed as one of watchmaking's most successful risk-takers, Audemars Piguet are rightfully renowned for incredible avant-garde timepieces that push horological boundaries. While the Royal Oak springs to mind as a surprising release given the market conditions at the time, the watch we have here is all the more unique due to the originality of its design. Nicknamed the "Star Wheel," the ref. 25720 has influenced several modern brands with its unique display and ever-growing following in horology. Launched in 1991, the Audemars Piguet ref. 25720 "Star Wheel" was unconventional for the 90s given the growing popularity of sports watches, which AP themselves accelerated with the Royal Oak. Now, it is immediately apparent that the Star Wheel was quite far ahead of its time as several modern watchmakers use it as inspiration for their timepieces, with AP even recently reissuing the watch as part of the Code 11.59 collection. Displaying the time by using three sapphire disks that rotate along the top of the dial, the minutes are displayed on a separate fixed linear track in the upper portion of the dial, as highlighted by the white backdrop over which the black numerals on the disks and chapter ring are legible. As each disk passes over the chapter ring, the disk’s position along the chapter ring shows how many minutes have passed in that hour. Produced only in precious metals and in extremely limited quantities, the Star Wheel features a stepped bezel and an entirely-polished surface alongside a small winding crown and unimposing lugs to complete its beautiful construction. A wonderful watch on the wrist, the 18kt rose gold ref. 25720OR that I have here measures 36mm in diameter and wears rather neatly. With its beautiful dial sporting bright rose section along its southern hemisphere with a hobnail engraved texture, the ref. 25720OR is genuinely captivating in hand and on the wrist.

The Star Wheel is an AP model I've always much admired. Perfectly unconventional, it was truly advanced for its time. It took other brands, such as Urwerk, several years to incorporate sapphire disks in their watches to display time. This particular model would appeal to both vintage and modern collectors alike. It is a solid example of the style, and would be a highly prized addition to any collection.