Introduction
Released in 1972 and designed by Gerald Genta, watchmaking's most famous designer, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak was the first stainless steel luxury sports watch ever to exist. Released as a tactic to survive the quartz crisis, the Royal Oak can single-handedly be thanked for AP's existence today due to its astounding success, albeit it wasn't an overnight hit. Its sizeable tonneau-shaped case, signature integrated bracelet, octagonal bezel, exposed screws, and steel construction failed to win over collectors until a few years later. Launched in 1972 as a limited series of 1000 pieces, the A-Series ref. 5402 was the first series of Royal Oak to be released. With its 39mm stainless steel case it was quickly nicknamed the “Jumbo” due to how much larger it was compared to other watches from the time. Following on from the stainless steel ref. 5402, AP launched 18kt yellow gold and two-tone variants, with the ref. 5402BA that we have here being one of those two-tone examples. Today, the Royal Oak is one of the most highly-coveted timepieces in all horology as its previously dismissed design details have permeated across the industry and into watches like the Patek Philippe Nautilus, Vacheron Constantin Overseas, Rolex Oysterquartz, amongst many other legendary timepieces. Offered with a partially tropicalized dial, this example’s dial boasts a beautiful golden hue that matches and accentuates the creamy yellow patina of its iconic luminescent hour markers and hands.
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Grade
V 8.5
Status
Vetted & Approved
Included
Box and Guarantee Booklet
Est. value range
$30,000 – $50,000
The Details
Brand
Audemars Piguet
Dimensions
39mm x 7mm
Model
Royal Oak
Movement
Automatic cal. 2121
Reference
5402BA
Bracelet
Integrated stainless steel and 18kt yellow gold bracelet
Year
1978
Condition
Excellent
Material
Stainless steel and 18kt yellow gold
Included
Watch, box and papers
Dial Color
Grey
THE DIAL
Boasting the Royal Oak's signature 'Petite Tapisserie' dial, this example's dial has been kept in wonderful condition. Additionally, this example boasts the sought-after "AP-down" dial whereby its applied AP logo is positioned at 6 o'clock; famously like in the A-series and sparingly seen in the B and C-series.
THE CONSTRUCTION
While its 39mm diameter certainly may have been imposing back in the 1970s, its incredibly thin 7.2mm case allows the ref. 5402 to wear wonderfully flat and makes it a pleasure on the wrist.
TIMING MACHINE READOUT
This reading was taken (crown down) with a ONEOF Accuracy Boutique Edition timing machine at time of cataloging. It is provided as a courtesy only, and shall not be construed as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Please refer to our terms and conditions of sale for more information.
Condition
Watch is in excellent overall condition. The case has sharp edges and nicely defined chamfers with minor surface scratches and marks visible in some areas. The bezel retains sharp edges and minimal signs of wear. The original grey dial with "AP at 6" excellent, with minor oxidation occurring around some of the applied indexes. The lime is discolored and matches on the dial and hands. Bracelet has 18 links total, one of which is removable. It fits a 7" wrist and has minimal stretch. Watch comes with original box and guarantee certificate dated 1978.
Please note that the watch is ticking at time of cataloging, but the timekeeping is poor and a service would be recommended.
poor timing report.
Our Perspective
Widely recognized as one of the most iconic timepieces ever produced, the Royal Oak ref. 5402 is perhaps one of the most important watches to ever be released, with its debut reviving Audemars Piguet and leading to the widespread adoption of stainless steel sports watches into most high-end watchmakers' arsenals.
Justin Gruenberg
Co-founder
