A German-born and Geneva-trained independent watchmaker best known for inventing the Central Impulse Chronometer that cemented his standing among the most serious minds in the craft, Bernhard Lederer launched his eponymous in 1986. Debuting in the 2000s, the Universe is his most poetic work. Featuring a rotating minute subdial that serves as the hour indicator, completing one revolution every twelve hours, the BLU’s display features an impressive sense of depth and movement that is immediately arresting. Paired with an black aventurine dial, this example’s display is perfectly poetic given the galactic aesthetic of the material as it shifts from a near-black to a scattered star field depending on the light. Featuring a 39mm stainless steel case with a stainless steel bracelet attached to the case with Vendome-style lugs, the BLU is as unique on the wrist as its display suggests it would be.

Combining a unique construction with an unusual dial layout that has since been replicated by plenty of brands, the BLU showcases just how ahead of its time Lederer was.