Following the sale of the Rayville-Blancpain name to Jacques Piguet and Jean Claude Biver in 1983, Blancpain began a journey from near-bankruptcy to acting as one of the main catalysts that saved Swiss watchmaking. Key to this success was Blancpain’s steadfast dedication to mechanical watches with thin complicated movements, classical designs and extremely luxurious craftsmanship; three tenets that are all contained within perhaps the finest expression of the Biver era of Blancpain; the Villeret Perpetual Calendar Chronograph ref. 5585. Launched in 1993, just one year after the Swatch Group bought back the brand, the ref. 5585 synthesized everything Blancpain had come to stand for over the 10 years since its revival. As such, the ref. 5585 built upon the aesthetic that Blancpain had championed during the Quartz Crisis with its svelte 34.5mm round case featuring a stepped domed bezel, a thin 11.5mm profile and an elegant white dial with applied Roman numerals and tastefully recessed subdials. Powered by the aptly named and immensely complicated cal. 5585 automatic movement, the ref. 5585 also features a perpetual calendar with a moon phase display and chronograph function. With only around 400 pieces produced across 18kt yellow gold, 18kt rose gold, two-tone and stainless steel, the ref. 5585 is a rare watch indeed, but with only 150 of those pieces being made in steel, the example we have here is exceedingly rare. Sitting on its intricate Blancpain-signed steel bracelet, this example is presented in excellent condition and will make a fantastic addition to any collection.

Watch is in overall excellent condition. No major scratches or marks on the case, only minor signs of wear. The dial is in near-mint condition with the edge of the dial starting to turn a little darker in color. Factory bracelet has 25 links total, 11 removable. It fits a medium sized wrist.

Perhaps the perfect celebration of Jean Claude Biver's work during his time with Blancpain, the ref. 5585 encapsulates the brand's classical aesthetic, impeccable craftsmanship and desire to produce stunning timepieces.