Lot #3729
Breguet Marine Diver 3400BB/12/B90 Diamond MOP Dial on Bracelet 18k WG
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Introduction
Founded by Abraham-Louis Breguet, one of horology’s most famed watchmakers, Breguet is a brand rooted in classical horological excellence. With such innovations as the tourbillon, the Breguet overcoil and their eponymous ‘Breguet’ hands and even numerals among their impressive list of accolades, Breguet are widely renowned as one of the most influential and important watchmakers in the industry. With a truly remarkable history, Breguet’s timepieces often hark back to the classical period of watchmaking through a traditional aesthetic, and this 18kt white gold Marine Diver does exactly that. Launched in 1990 to pay homage to Abraham Louis Breguet's title of "Horloger de la Marine" whereby he made chronometers for the French Navy as the ‘Watchmaker to the Royal Navy’, the eponymous collection boasts a perfectly round 18kt white gold case with a polished domed bezel that swoops down to the midcase where it overhangs a coin-edge texture and a wonderfully detailed dial inspired by those chronometers that came before it. Attached to an interesting white gold bracelet, this Marine is luxurious and elegant on the wrist. Much like its case, this Marine’s mother of pearl dial features a beautiful blend of textures, with a hobnail engraving in its center and concentrically-brushed chapter rings. An elegantly styled timepiece, this example is undoubtedly Breguet at their finest in just about every way from its craftsmanship, design and execution.
Loupe This Scorecard
Grade
M 8.5
Status
Vetted & Approved
Included
Watch Only
Est. value range
$10,000 – $15,000
The Details
Brand
Breguet
Dimensions
35mm
Model
Marine Diver
Movement
Automatic
Reference
3400BB/12/B90
Bracelet
18kt white gold bracelet
Year
Circa 1990s
Condition
Excellent
Material
18kt white gold
Included
Watch only
Dial Color
Silver (Mother of pearl)

THE DIAL
Boasting a mother of pearl dial with various decorated surfaces, with its brushed chapter ring and hobnail center, this example's dial is simple beautiful.

THE CONSTRUCTION
A svelte timepiece by today's standards, the Marine Diver is indeed classical in its construction, with a 35mm 18kt white gold case that takes direct inspiration from mid-century dress watches via its sizing, coin-edge textured midcase and polished domed bezel amongst other pieces of its design. However, with its bracelet bulking it up, this packs a serious punch.

TIMING MACHINE READOUT
This reading was taken (crown down) with a ONEOF Accuracy Boutique Edition timing machine at time of cataloging. It is provided as a courtesy only, and shall not be construed as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Please refer to our terms and conditions of sale for more information.
Condition
The watch is overall in excellent condition. The white gold case has some light marks and scratches from wear but remains very well defined, with a crisp coin edge. The case back is in excellent condition under the sticker, with clear engravings and hallmarks. The screw heads on the case back and lugs have some wear. The guilloché dial is pristine, with diamond hour markers on the minute track and clean Breguet hands. The watch retains its original Breguet-signed crown. The fancy bracelet is in excellent condition with a clean Breguet-signed clasp. The bracelet currently fits a 7 1/2" wrist and has 15 links, with light play between the links. There appears to be glue residue on the back of the bracelet.
Our Perspective
Vividly Breguet in just about every way possible, this example displays the French watchmaker's most refined and elegant touches across its entire design. From its gorgeous mother of pearl dial to its carefully constructed case and intricate bracelet, it is hard not to see the appeal of its luxuriously executed aesthetic.