Introduction
Released in 1954, the Breguet Type 20 is the French brand’s bond between watchmaking and aviation. Designed as a watch for the French Air Force in the early ’50s, the Type 20 met requirements drawn up by the French Ministry of Defence for a watch that their Air Force could wear. These requirements were quite reasonable with low-light legibility, reliability, accuracy of +/- 8 seconds a day and a steel case all taking precedence over anything else. Breguet, using the vast experience they have gained since their inception in 1775, designed and put forward the Type 20. Following quick approval, the watches were delivered to the French Air Force between 1955 and 1959. They were also delivered to the Flight Test centre between 1956 and 1957 and the Naval Air Force in 1960. The Type 20 was such a massive hit with the aviators that wore them that high demand from the public ensued. Shortly after, the Type 20 was released to the civilian population. The civilian version was renamed as the Type XX and has since seen many iterations of itself be released. Offered here we have the Type XX Aeronavale, which was launched in 1995 as the third generation of the Type XX, with it staying in production until 2018. Boasting gorgeously aged tritium luminous Arabic numerals atop its black dial, this example’s age is no secret, with its 39mm stainless steel coin-edge case remaining in stunning condition, along with its rotating numbered bezel.
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Grade
M 8.5
Status
Vetted & Approved
Included
Box
Est. value range
$4,000 – $6,000
The Details
Brand
Breguet
Dimensions
39.5mm
Model
Type XX Aeronavale
Movement
Automatic Breguet cal. 582 (Lemania cal. 1350 base)
Reference
3800ST/92/SW9
Bracelet
Stainless steel bracelet
Year
Circa 2010s
Condition
Excellent
Material
Stainless steel
Included
Watch and box
Dial Color
Black
THE DIAL
Retaining the Type 20's utilitarian design language, the Type XX's black display is abundantly legible with its trio of chronograph subdials and luminous Arabic numerals shouting the time at its wearer.
THE CONSTRUCTION
Distinctively modern on the wrist even, with its relative age as a watch that was launched in 1995, the ref. 3800's stainless steel 39mm case and accompanying bracelet were evidently way ahead of their time, given just how contemporary they still feel to this day.
TIMING MACHINE READOUT
This reading was taken (crown down) with a ONEOF Accuracy Boutique Edition timing machine at time of cataloging. It is provided as a courtesy only, and shall not be construed as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Please refer to our terms and conditions of sale for more information.
Condition
Watch is in overall excellent condition. The steel case shows surface scratches and marks to the polished surfaces, while the case back retains well-defined engravings with some signs of wear and small scuffs. The bezel and insert remain very clean. The dial remains like new, while the hands show some discoloration to the lume. It is fitted with a steel bracelet showing surface scratches and negligible play between the links. The bracelet is fitted with 23 links, 6 of which are removable, and fits approximately a 7½” wrist. Please note that the watch ticks at time of cataloging, but timekeeping is poor and a service is recommended.
Our Perspective
One of horology's most iconic aviator's watches, the Type XX was a legendary part of Breguet's modern history as they deviated outside of their normal complications and elegant dress watches and into the realm of sports watches.
Eric Ku
Co-founder
