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Lot #3172

Breguet Type XX Two Register Chronograph Big Eye

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Introduction

Released in 1954, the Breguet Type 20 is the French brand’s bond between watchmaking and aviation. Designed as a watch for the French Air Force in the early ’50s, the Type 20 met requirements drawn up by the French Ministry of Defence for a watch that their Air Force could wear. These requirements were quite reasonable with low-light legibility, reliability, accuracy of +/- 8 seconds a day and a steel case all taking precedence over anything else. Breguet, using the vast experience they have gained since their inception in 1775, designed and put forward the Type 20. Following quick approval, the watches were delivered to the French Air Force between 1955 and 1959. They were also delivered to the Flight Test centre between 1956 and 1957 and the Naval Air Force in 1960.The Type 20 was such a massive hit with the aviators that wore them that high demand from the public ensued. Shortly after, the Type 20 was released to the civilian population. The civilian version was renamed as the Type XX and has since seen many iterations of itself be released. Offered here we have a twin register ‘Big Eye’ variant, with its characteristic large subdial at 3 o’clock. Boasting gorgeously aged luminous Arabic numerals atop its black dial, this example’s age is no secret, with its 38mm stainless steel case remaining in stunning condition, along with its rotating numbered bezel.

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Grade

V 8

Status

Vetted & Approved

Included

Watch Only

Est. value range

$12,000 – $18,000

The Details

Brand

Breguet

Dimensions

38mm

Model

Type XX

Movement

Manual-wind Valjoux cal. 720

Reference

5113

Bracelet

Leather strap

Year

Early 1960s

Condition

Excellent

Material

Stainless steel

Included

Watch only

Dial Color

Black

THE DIAL
THE DIAL

Boasting the iconic "Big Eye' dial on account of its subdial at 3 o'clock being larger than the subdial at 9 o'clock, this Type XX will be a familiar sight to the aviation watch lovers amongst us.

THE CONSTRUCTION
THE CONSTRUCTION

Boasting a numbered rotatable bezel and a larger 38mm stainless steel case, the Type XX was a pure aviator's watch according to just about every metric available back in the 1960s.

TIMING MACHINE READOUT
TIMING MACHINE READOUT

This reading was taken (crown down) with a ONEOF Accuracy Boutique Edition timing machine at time of cataloging. It is provided as a courtesy only, and shall not be construed as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Please refer to our terms and conditions of sale for more information. Please note that the watch ticks at time of cataloging but the timekeeping is very poor and the movement is in need of a service.

Condition

Watch is in very good overall condtion. Case show moderate signs of wear, with faceted lugs that retain the original factory shape. The bezel retains most of the black in the numbers, and shows some surface wear. The crystal has visible surface scratches. Black dial in very good condition. Dial retains original luminous material, and shows some light surface wear and aging, with some breakage visible in the 5 minute indexes on the edge. The luminous material in the minute hand as well as the minute counter have been restored at some point. Under a UV light, only the repaired area on the minute hand and the subdial hand fluoresce. Lower pusher has been replaced and has a slightly different profile than the original pusher. Please note that the watch ticks at time of cataloging but the timekeeping is very poor and the movement is in need of a service.

Our Perspective

One of horology's most iconic aviator's watches, the Type XX was a legendary part of Breguet's modern history as they deviated outside of their normal complications and elegant dress watches and into the realm of sports watches.

Eric Ku

Co-founder