Introduction
Released in 1954, the Breguet Type 20 is the French brand’s bond between watchmaking and aviation. Designed as a watch for the French Air Force in the early ’50s, the Type 20 met requirements drawn up by the French Ministry of Defence for a watch that their Air Force could wear. These requirements were quite reasonable with low-light legibility, reliability, accuracy of +/- 8 seconds a day and a steel case all taking precedence over anything else. Breguet, using the vast experience they have gained since their inception in 1775, designed and put forward the Type 20. Following quick approval, the watches were delivered to the French Air Force between 1955 and 1959. They were also delivered to the Flight Test centre between 1956 and 1957 and the Naval Air Force in 1960.The Type 20 was such a massive hit with the aviators that wore them that high demand from the public ensued. Shortly after, the Type 20 was released to the civilian population. The civilian version was renamed as the Type XX and has since seen many iterations of itself be released. Offered here we have a twin register ‘Big Eye’ variant, with its characteristic large subdial at 3 o’clock. Boasting gorgeously aged luminous Arabic numerals atop its black dial, this example’s age is no secret, with its 38mm stainless steel case remaining in stunning condition, along with its rotating numbered bezel.
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Grade
V 8
Status
Vetted & Approved
Included
Watch Only
Est. value range
$12,000 – $18,000
The Details
Brand
Breguet
Dimensions
38mm
Model
Type XX
Movement
Manual-wind Valjoux cal. 720
Reference
5113
Bracelet
Leather strap
Year
Early 1960s
Condition
Excellent
Material
Stainless steel
Included
Watch only
Dial Color
Black
Condition
Watch is in very good overall condtion. Case show moderate signs of wear, with faceted lugs that retain the original factory shape. The bezel retains most of the black in the numbers, and shows some surface wear. The crystal has visible surface scratches. Black dial in very good condition. Dial retains original luminous material, and shows some light surface wear and aging, with some breakage visible in the 5 minute indexes on the edge. The luminous material in the minute hand as well as the minute counter have been restored at some point. Under a UV light, only the repaired area on the minute hand and the subdial hand fluoresce. Lower pusher has been replaced and has a slightly different profile than the original pusher. Please note that the watch ticks at time of cataloging but the timekeeping is very poor and the movement is in need of a service.
Our Perspective
One of horology's most iconic aviator's watches, the Type XX was a legendary part of Breguet's modern history as they deviated outside of their normal complications and elegant dress watches and into the realm of sports watches.