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Lot #3308

Cartier London Ladies Tank Ceinture 1971 18k YG

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Introduction

Famed for their iconic collections and classical styling, French jeweller and watchmaker Cartier hold a vital position within the horology industry. However, one such collection that flies under the radar is the Ceinture, first launched in 1927 but reintroduced to Cartier's line-up around 1973. Of course, the Ceinture's most distinctive element is its unusual octagonal case. Somewhat reminiscent of a belt's buckle ('ceinture' means 'belt' in French after all), the Ceinture resembles a square that has had its corners cut, which in turn allows the watch to wear more prominently on the wrist than one would assume judging solely on its dimensions. With its deep-stepped bezel design, the Ceinture is truly an interesting timepiece on the wrist. Feeding into this intrigue is the Ceinture's octagonal crown, which sits within its case and acts as an extension of the stepped bezel. Cartier also decided to forgo their signature sapphire cabochon crown so that the Ceinture's crown could sit within the bezel, a feature that Cartier calls "remontoir imperdable" (captive winding). Offere here, however, we do not have an ordinary Ceinture from that post-1973 reintroduction. Instead, we have a mythical Cartier London Ceinture from 1971. Made by a watchmaker by hand in their London workshop, this 23mm example is part of the exceptionally rare world of Cartier London watches, a true rarity within the niche sphere of watch collecting that has enveloped all things Cartier.

Loupe This Scorecard

Grade

V 8.5

Status

Vetted & Approved

Included

Watch Only

Est. value range

$5,000 – $8,000

The Details

Brand

Cartier

Dimensions

23mm

Model

Ceinture Tank

Movement

Manual-wind JLC cal.

Reference

N/A

Bracelet

Leather strap

Year

1971 (Lowercase 'q' hallmark)

Condition

Excellent

Material

18kt yellow gold

Included

Watch only

Dial Color

White

THE DIAL
THE DIAL

Boasting its original London dial, this Ceinture features Cartier's signature exploding Roman numerals and blued steel hands, and lacks any signed location such as 'Paris' or 'Swiss' as is correct for London dials.

THE CONSTRUCTION
THE CONSTRUCTION

Uniquely shaped for its time, the Ceinture demonstrates Cartier's design talents as they continued to create interesting timepieces from one template, the Tank.

TIMING MACHINE READOUT
TIMING MACHINE READOUT

This reading was taken (crown down) with a ONEOF Accuracy Boutique Edition timing machine at time of cataloging. It is provided as a courtesy only, and shall not be construed as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Please refer to our terms and conditions of sale for more information.

Condition

Watch is in excellent overall condition. Case exhibits minor surface wear and oxidation. The serial number on the caseback is crisp and fully visible. Original Cartier London dial is excellent, with only minor aging evident. Deployant buckle has the same serial number on the edge of the buckle. Strap fits a 7" wrist.

Please Note: Due to CITES considerations, if the watch is to be shipped outside of the USA, the exotic skin strap will have to be removed.

Our Perspective

Blending Cartier's classical design language with a unique case shape, the Ceinture merges the Tank's elegant rectangular design with the Santos Dumont's angular construction in what is an abundantly clear expression of their renowned free-thinking creativity.

Eric Ku

Co-founder