Introduction
Introduced in the early 1980s following the success of Cartier’s collaboration with Dupont on a collection of co-branded lighters that ended up securing Cartier’s financial future, the Tank Must de Cartier collection is a diffusion line that leveraged the Cartier Tank’s iconic silhouette and Cartier’s legendary branding in a more affordable package so as to offer customers the same look as before but at a more palatable price tag. While the Tank Louis which the Tank Must is based on is made of 18kt yellow gold, the Tank Must collection primarily uses a sterling silver case that is then electroplated in 18kt yellow gold, resulting in a far more economical watch without sacrificing aesthetics. Additionally, the Tank Must collection often featured quartz movements, but on rare occasions it was powered by a manual-wind Cartier movement, like both of our matching examples here. Additionally, to play on its more affordable price tag, Cartier would experiment with different dial designs and finishes, with the two examples here boasting matching burgundy dials with matching golden hands and a distinct lack of inscriptions other than Cartier’s own branding and logo.
Loupe This Scorecard
Grade
V 9
Status
Vetted & Approved
Included
Boxes, Guarantees, Instructions
Est. value range
$4,000 – $6,000
The Details
Brand
Cartier
Dimensions
30mm x 23mm; 27mm x 20mm
Model
Tank Must de Cartier
Movement
Manual-wind
Reference
N/A
Bracelet
Leather straps
Year
1981
Condition
Near-Mint
Material
18kt yellow gold-plated Sterling silver
Included
Watch x 2, box x 2, papers x 2 and booklets x 2
Dial Color
Burgundy
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THE DIALS
Both offered with dark red burgundy dials, these Tank Must de Cartier's lack any of Cartier's better-known dial details as per the Must collection's aesthetic.
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THE CONSTRUCTIONS
Made of 18kt yellow gold-plated sterling silver, the Must de Cartier collection was significantly more affordable than its fully-fledged 18kt yellow gold siblings while still offering the same design and aesthetics on the wrist.
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THE FULL SETS
Offered with everything as they were originally sold back in 1981, these two examples tell their full story from the original Cartier AD to your wrist.
Condition
Watches are in near-mint vintage condition. Very minor signs of handling visible on the watch surfaces. There is oxidation visible on the casebooks and around the edges of the case sides and crowns as seen in the images. Burgundy colored dials are eye-clean and do not exhibit any surface damage. The hands on the smaller watch have minor signs of aging as seen in the images.
Please Note: Due to CITES considerations, if the watch is to be shipped outside of the USA, the exotic skin strap will have to be removed.
timing readout for the ladies is + 16.3 s/d. mens is +12.8 s/d
Our Perspective
How rare of an opportunity to be able to acquire a matching his and hers set of vintage Cartier Tanks in near-pristine condition? Bought on the same day in 1981, this lover's set was destined to be kept together and never split up. Sold at the Costa Mesa (California) boutique, we love the addition of the Cartier NY stock numbers hand stamped on the casebooks.