Introduction
Very few watches carry the cultural weight of the Panthère de Cartier, especially within the watch industry’s modern context. Launched in 1983, the collection quickly became a symbol of Parisian elegance, and was spotted adorning the wrists of royalty, film stars, and fashion icons throughout the ‘80s and ‘90s. Discontinued in 2004, its revival in 2017 was met with considerable excitement from collectors and enthusiasts alike, with it quickly garnering the status of one of the most desirable watches in the modern market. While its square case shape is perhaps its best-known form, the Cougar variant of the Panthere collection was launched in 1989 that sought to extend upon the model’s design language, but with a round case. Offered here from the 1990s we have the stainless steel Cougar ref. W5002F5, boasting a large 33mm case, a stainless steel bracelet, and a silver dial featuring all of the classic Cartier dial design hallmarks such as blued steel hands and Roman numerals. Architectural and unmistakably Cartier, the Panthere de Cartier Cougar is a watch that has proven to transcend trends and sits firmly in the canon of horological design.
Loupe This Scorecard
Grade
M 8.5
Status
Vetted & Approved
Included
Watch and service pouch
Est. value range
$1,000 – $1,500
The Details
Brand
Cartier
Dimensions
33mm
Model
Panthere Cougar
Movement
Quartz cal. 87
Reference
W5002F5
Bracelet
Stainless steel bracelet
Year
Circa 1990s
Condition
Excellent
Material
Stainless steel
Included
Watch and service pouch only
Dial Color
Silver

THE DIAL
Featuring an aged white dial, the Cougars 's display boasts a darkened silvery eggshell-white color that gently reveals this example's age.

THE CONSTRUCTION
Featuring signature design details such as its exposed rivet bezel, stainless steel 5-link bracelet, the Cougar is unmistakable as a member of the Panthere family, even with its round case.

THE PROFILE
Powered by the quartz cal. 87 movement, the ref. W5002F5's case is wonderfully thin and sits flat on the wrist.
Condition
Watch is in overall excellent condition. The brushed steel case remains excellent, with only light surface marks visible. The polished bezel shows surface scratches and a couple of small nicks. The case back retains well-defined engravings and displays scratches along with some wear to the screw heads. The dial shows a couple of small surface marks and some marks at the very edge around three o’clock. It is fitted with a bracelet in excellent condition, showing light play between the links. The bracelet is fitted with 13 links, 1 of which is removable, and fits approximately a 6¾” wrist. Comes with Cartier pouch.
Our Perspective
A classic piece of Cartier design, the Cougar took the Panthere's blueprint and styled it slightly differently to create a wonderfully elegant watch that was still unmistakable in its timeless design.












