Introduction
With the aviation industry growing at unprecedented rates, one pioneering Brazilian aviator saw the need for a particular kind of tool - a pilot’s watch. So, this aviator, Alberto Santos-Dumont, went to Louis Cartier in 1904 and asked him to design a watch fit for flight. This watch became the Cartier Santos Dumont, the very first tool watch. Evolving through time as an extensive array of wonderful models, the Santos Dumont has become one of watchmaking’s most iconic designs, and is famed for creating the humble wristwatch as we know it. Offered here as a Santos Dumont variant from the 1980s, the ref. 96054 that we have is known as the "Extra Plate", which means "extra flat" in French, due to its 4.4mm tall case, a result of its ultra-thin manual-wind Frederic Piguet cal. 21 movement.
Loupe This Scorecard
Grade
V 8.5
Status
Vetted & Approved
Included
Watch Only
Est. value range
$8,000 – $12,000
The Details
Brand
Cartier
Dimensions
27mm x 36mm x 4.4mm
Model
Santos Dumont
Movement
Manual-wind Frederic Piguet cal. 21
Reference
96054
Bracelet
Leather strap
Year
Circa 1980s
Condition
Excellent
Material
18kt yellow gold
Included
Watch only
Dial Color
White
THE DIAL
With Cartier's signature combination of a white dial with black roman numerals and blued steel hands, the Santos Dumont speaks to the refined design that has enabled the French jeweler to become such an icon within the world of design.
THE CONSTRUCTION
Featuring its iconic square shape, screw-studded bezel, and angular cabochon-capped crown, the Santos Dumont's construction is among the most distinctive in the industry, and in this "Extra plate" configuration that stands only 4.4mm tall, the ref. 96054 is a true delight on the wrist.
TIMING MACHINE READOUT
This reading was taken (crown down) with a ONEOF Accuracy Boutique Edition timing machine at time of cataloging. It is provided as a courtesy only, and shall not be construed as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Please refer to our terms and conditions of sale for more information.
Condition
The watch is in overall excellent condition. The yellow gold case has a number of scratches and nicks, particularly on the bezel edge and on the case side near the winding crown. The case back shows a number of scratches but retains well-defined engravings and hallmarks. The Paris signed dial has some crazing and discoloration to the finish, particularly around the edges and between nine and ten o’clock. The watch is fitted with a brown alligator Cartier strap and a yellow gold Cartier pin buckle in excellent condition. Please note that the watch ticks at time of cataloging, but timekeeping is poor and a service is recommended.
Please Note: Due to CITES considerations, if the watch is to be shipped outside of the USA, the exotic skin strap will have to be removed.
Our Perspective
Imbued with Cartier's iconic design and its own heritage as the world's first tool watch, the Santos Dumont is important as the timepiece that set the entire industry as we know it today into motion.
Justin Gruenberg
Co-founder
