Introduction
Cartier has a long history of approaching watches as objects of design as much as instruments for telling time, and its pocket watches provided an especially rich canvas for experimentation with case forms, decorative techniques and unusual movements. Even as the wristwatch became dominant during the 20th century, Cartier continued to produce pocket and pendant watches for clients drawn to the more traditional format.
Dating to circa the 1970s, the present Cartier Paris pocket watch is particularly striking for its combination of a compact cushion-shaped 18K yellow gold case and fully openworked mechanical movement. Rather than employing a conventional dial, the movement itself forms the centre of the display, surrounded by a brushed gold chapter ring with black Roman numerals. Blued hands provide the characteristic Cartier contrast against the elaborate gold-toned movement beneath. Measuring approximately 34mm by 37mm, the watch is accompanied by a substantial 18K yellow gold twisted-link chain by Chaumet.
Loupe This Scorecard
Grade
M 8.5
Status
Vetted & Approved
Included
Watch Only
Est. value range
$30,000 – $50,000
The Details
Brand
Cartier
Dimensions
34mm x 37mm
Model
Skeleton Pocket Watch
Movement
Manual-wind skeletonised movement
Reference
N/A
Bracelet
18K yellow gold chain
Year
Circa 1970s
Condition
Excellent
Material
18K Yellow Gold
Included
Watch only
Dial Color
Skeletonised with gold chapter ring
THE DIAL
Dispensing with a conventional dial, the watch places its openworked movement on full display beneath a square crystal. A brushed yellow gold chapter ring surrounds the movement and is marked with elongated black Roman numerals, while heat-blued hands provide both contrast and an unmistakably Cartier finishing touch.
THE CONSTRUCTION
The unusual cushion-shaped case is executed in 18K yellow gold, with broad rounded edges framing the comparatively angular movement display. Measuring approximately 34mm long by 37mm wide, it is accompanied by a twisted-link 18K yellow gold chain by Chaumet.
TIMING MACHINE READOUT
This reading was taken (crown down) with a ONEOF Accuracy Boutique Edition timing machine at time of cataloging. It is provided as a courtesy only, and shall not be construed as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Please refer to our terms and conditions of sale for more information.
Condition
Watch is in overall excellent condition. The 18K yellow gold case shows a number of surface scratches and scuffs. The case back retains well-defined stamps and hallmarks, including the Cartier Paris signature. The Roman numeral chapter ring retains all of its black enamel, and the hands remain clean. It is fitted with an 18K yellow gold twisted-link Chaumet chain in excellent condition. The chain measures approximately 14½” in length, excluding the watch and clip.
Please note: The watch ticks at time of cataloging, but timekeeping is poor and a service is recommended.
Our Perspective
Cartier's best-known watches are defined by instantly recognisable dials and cases, making this almost dial-less skeleton pocket watch an intriguing departure. Its cushion-shaped gold case, exposed mechanical architecture and traditional Roman numerals combine two very different sides of Cartier: the Parisian design house and the mechanical watchmaker. Accompanied by a substantial 18K yellow gold chain by Chaumet, it brings together two of Paris's great jewellery houses in an unusual and wonderfully decorative vintage timepiece.
Justin Gruenberg
Co-founder
