The Santos-Dumont traces its origins to 1904, when Louis Cartier created a wristwatch for his friend, pioneering Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, who wanted to be able to read the time while flying without reaching for a pocket watch. The resulting design became one of the foundational wristwatches of the early twentieth century and established an aesthetic that Cartier would revisit repeatedly: a square case, exposed bezel screws, Roman numerals and a cabochon-set crown. More than a century later, remarkably little is required to identify a Santos-Dumont as a Cartier.

This circa 1980s ref. 96054 represents an especially elegant interpretation of that design. Known as the Extra-Plat, literally “extra-flat”, its 18K yellow gold case measures just 4.4mm thick, made possible by the exceptionally slim manually wound Frédéric Piguet calibre 21 within. Measuring 27mm by 36mm, it combines those unusually slender proportions with a Paris-signed white dial, black Roman numerals and blued steel hands. The result is a Santos-Dumont reduced to its essentials, demonstrating how effectively Cartier's early aviation-inspired design translated into the refined ultra-thin watches of the late twentieth century.

Watch is in overall excellent condition. The 18K yellow gold case shows surface scratches and small marks, particularly to the case sides. The engravings and hallmarks remain largely well defined. The screws to the case sides show some wear, particularly the strap screws. Much of the gold case has developed a patina. The cabochon-topped winding crown is in excellent condition. The Paris-signed dial is in near-mint condition and the blued hands remain very clean. It is fitted with a black leather strap and 18K yellow gold Cartier deployant clasp in excellent condition.

Please Note: Due to CITES considerations, if the watch is to be shipped outside of the USA, the exotic skin strap will have to be removed.