Introduction
Famed for their iconic collections and classical styling, French jeweller and watchmaker Cartier hold a vital position within the horology industry. However, one such collection that flies under the radar is the Ceinture, first launched in 1927 but reintroduced to Cartier's line-up in the early 1970s, around 1973. First offered in two case sizes, 25mm and 27mm, until a larger 31mm variant was introduced, the Ceinture is a dynamic timepiece known for its unique twist on the Tank’s design. Powered by the manual wind cal. 78.1 movement, the model we have here is perhaps the variant that is truest to Cartier's ethos with its 18kt yellow gold case and bright white dial featuring black Roman numerals, a railroad minute track and blued steel hands. Of course, the Ceinture's most distinctive element is its unusual octagonal case. Somewhat reminiscent of a belt's buckle ('ceinture' means 'belt' in French afterall), the Ceinture resembles a square that has had its corners cut, which in turn allows the watch to wear more prominently on the wrist than one would assume judging solely on its dimensions. With its deep-stepped bezel design, the Ceinture is truly an interesting timepiece on the wrist. Feeding into this intrigue is the Ceinture's octagonal crown, which sits within its case and acts as an extension of the stepped bezel. Cartier also decided to forgo their signature sapphire cabochon crown so that the Ceinture's crown could sit within the bezel, a feature that Cartier calls "remontoir imperdable" (captive winding).
Loupe This Scorecard
Grade
V 8.5
Status
Vetted & Approved
Included
Watch Only
Est. value range
$3,000 – $5,000
The Details
Brand
Cartier
Dimensions
27mm x 27mm
Model
Ceinture Tank
Movement
Manual-wind
Reference
N/A
Bracelet
Leather strap
Year
ca. late 1970s
Condition
Excellent
Material
18kt yellow gold
Included
Watch only
Dial Color
White
![](https://cdn.sanity.io/images/j0ua8uvr/production/0c3db63b87421c471de7cb7952d05731632a67e0-2400x2400.jpg?w=3840&q=100&fit=clip&auto=format)
THE DIAL
Featuring all of Cartier's core design tenets, the Ceinture boasts a bright white dial with black Roman numerals and railroad minute track alongside blued steel hands.
![](https://cdn.sanity.io/images/j0ua8uvr/production/137dcdeb609af1ef3a2ade844888d305bd78261f-2400x2400.jpg?w=3840&q=100&fit=clip&auto=format)
THE CONSTRUCTION
Uniquely shaped for its time, the Ceinture demonstrates Cartier's design talents as they continue to create interesting timepieces from one template, the Tank.
![](https://cdn.sanity.io/images/j0ua8uvr/production/fcc9242282f9288940b9547091ed573738aa5713-1284x1284.jpg?w=3840&q=100&fit=clip&auto=format)
TIMING MACHINE READOUT
This reading was taken (crown down) with a ONEOF Accuracy Boutique Edition timing machine at time of cataloging. It is provided as a courtesy only, and shall not be construed as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Please refer to our terms and conditions of sale for more information.
Condition
Watch is in overall excellent condition. Minor surface wear, and gold has developed a medium tone patina. Numbers and hallmarks on caseback are crisp and fully visible. Watch comes with a 18k tang buckle.
Please Note: Due to CITES considerations, if the watch is to be shipped outside of the USA, the exotic skin strap will have to be removed.
Our Perspective
Blending Cartier's classical design language with a unique case shape, the Ceinture merges the Tank's elegant rectangular design with the Santos Dumont's angular construction in what is an abundantly clear expression of their renowned free-thinking creativity.