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Lot #2326

Cartier Tank Ceinture 78099 18k YG

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Introduction

Famed for their iconic collections and classical styling, French jeweller and watchmaker Cartier hold a vital position within the horology industry. However, one such collection that flies under the radar is the Ceinture, first launched in 1927 but reintroduced to Cartier's line-up in the early 1970s, around 1973. First offered in two case sizes, 25mm and 27mm, until a larger 31mm variant was introduced, the Ceinture is a dynamic timepiece known for its unique twist on the Tank’s design. Powered by the manual wind cal. 78.1 movement, the model we have here is perhaps the variant that is truest to Cartier's ethos with its 18kt yellow gold case and bright white dial featuring black Roman numerals, a railroad minute track and blued steel hands. Of course, the Ceinture's most distinctive element is its unusual octagonal case. Somewhat reminiscent of a belt's buckle ('ceinture' means 'belt' in French afterall), the Ceinture resembles a square that has had its corners cut, which in turn allows the watch to wear more prominently on the wrist than one would assume judging solely on its dimensions. With its deep-stepped bezel design, the Ceinture is truly an interesting timepiece on the wrist. Feeding into this intrigue is the Ceinture's octagonal crown, which sits within its case and acts as an extension of the stepped bezel. Cartier also decided to forgo their signature sapphire cabochon crown so that the Ceinture's crown could sit within the bezel, a feature that Cartier calls "remontoir imperdable" (captive winding).

Loupe This Scorecard

Grade

M 8.5

Status

Vetted & Approved

Included

Serice Paper

Est. value range

$2,000 – $4,000

The Details

Brand

Cartier

Dimensions

27mm x 27mm

Model

Tank Ceinture

Movement

Manual-wind

Reference

78099

Bracelet

Leather strap

Year

Circa 1970s

Condition

Excellent

Material

18kt yellow gold

Included

Watch and 2020 Cartier invoice

Dial Color

White

THE DIAL
THE DIAL

Featuring all of Cartier's core design tenets, the Ceinture boasts a bright white dial with black Roman numerals and railroad minute track alongside blued steel hands. Signed "SWISS MADE", this watch features a service dial that was likely replaced at a prior service with Cartier.

THE CONSTRUCTION
THE CONSTRUCTION

Uniquely shaped for its time, the Ceinture demonstrates Cartier's design talents as they continue to create interesting timepieces from one template, the Tank.

TIMING MACHINE READOUT
TIMING MACHINE READOUT

This reading was taken (crown down) with a ONEOF Accuracy Boutique Edition timing machine at time of cataloging. It is provided as a courtesy only, and shall not be construed as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Please refer to our terms and conditions of sale for more information.

Condition

Watch is in very good overall condition. Case shows some wear on the edges, with some marks and nicks visible on the case. Caseback has a service sticker affixed, and all the engravings are crisp and visible. SWISS MADE signed dial was replaced at service. Watch comes with original gold deployant buckle. A receipt of service is included from Cartier Japan, dated 2020.

Please Note: Due to CITES considerations, if the watch is to be shipped outside of the USA, the exotic skin strap will have to be removed.

Our Perspective

Blending Cartier's classical design language with a unique case shape, the Ceinture merges the Tank's elegant rectangular design with the Santos Dumont's angular construction in what is an abundantly clear expression of their renowned free-thinking creativity.

Eric Ku

Co-founder