Introduction
Famed for their iconic collections and classical styling, French jeweller and watchmaker Cartier hold a vital position within the horology industry. However, one such collection that flies under the radar is the Ceinture, first launched in 1927 but reintroduced to Cartier's line-up in the early 1970s, around 1973. First offered in two case sizes, 25mm and 27mm, until a larger 31mm variant was introduced, the Ceinture is a dynamic timepiece known for its unique twist on the Tank’s design. Powered by the manual wind cal. 78.1 movement, the model we have here is perhaps the variant that is truest to Cartier's ethos with its 18kt yellow gold case and bright white dial featuring black Roman numerals, a railroad minute track and blued steel hands. Of course, the Ceinture's most distinctive element is its unusual octagonal case. Somewhat reminiscent of a belt's buckle ('ceinture' means 'belt' in French after all), the Ceinture resembles a square that has had its corners cut, which in turn allows the watch to wear more prominently on the wrist than one would assume judging solely on its dimensions. With its deep-stepped bezel design, the Ceinture is truly an interesting timepiece on the wrist. Feeding into this intrigue is the Ceinture's octagonal crown, which sits within its case and acts as an extension of the stepped bezel. Cartier also decided to forgo their signature sapphire cabochon crown so that the Ceinture's crown could sit within the bezel, a feature that Cartier calls "remontoir imperdable" (captive winding).
Loupe This Scorecard
Grade
M 8.5
Status
Vetted & Approved
Included
Watch Only
Est. value range
$2,000 – $4,000
The Details
Brand
Cartier
Dimensions
25mm x 25mm
Model
Tank Ceinture
Movement
Manual-wind cal. 78-1
Reference
78100
Bracelet
Leather strap
Year
Circa 1980s
Condition
Excellent
Material
18kt yellow gold
Included
Watch only
Dial Color
White
Condition
Watch is in excellent overall condition. Case shows light surface wear with minor oxidation visible around some edges. Caseback engravings are crisp and fully visible. There was a sticker previously affixed on the caseback, and some discoloration on the surface remains. Original Paris signed dial in excellent condition, with only minor signs of aging. Watch comes on an original strap with 18k deployant buckle.
Please Note: Due to CITES considerations, if the watch is to be shipped outside of the USA, the exotic skin strap will have to be removed.
Our Perspective
Blending Cartier's classical design language with a unique case shape, the Ceinture merges the Tank's elegant rectangular design with the Santos Dumont's angular construction in what is an abundantly clear expression of their renowned free-thinking creativity.