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Lot #3093

Chanel J12 Caliber 12.1 H5697 Black Ceramic

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Introduction

Launched in 1999 as the brainchild of Jacques Hélleu, Chanel's then-chief designer, the J12 was launched as a practical sports watch that carried Chanel’s iconic and timeless design language in a way that broke from the conventional understanding of what type of watches fashion brands would create at the time. Boasting a completely ceramic construction, the J12’s black case and bracelet were a big part of the watch’s design language thanks to their pairing with a monochromatic display and bezel. One of the earliest “fashion watches” to break from the understanding that fashion brands only create cheaply made watches to sell at a large mark up, the J12 ref. H5697 that we have here is powered by a chronometer-certified movement, the cal. 12.1 – which is on display behind an exhibition caseback that proves that it is by no means just a cheap watch, but instead a historically-established horologically-significant offering from one of fashion’s most iconic houses.

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Grade

M 9

Status

Vetted & Approved

Included

Inner Box, Open Chronometer Card

Est. value range

$2,000 – $4,000

The Details

Brand

Chanel

Dimensions

38mm

Model

J12

Movement

Automatic cal. 12.1

Reference

H5697

Bracelet

Black ceramic bracelet

Year

Circa 2020

Condition

Near-Mint

Material

Black ceramic

Included

Watch, inner box and open chronometer card

Dial Color

Black

THE DIAL
THE DIAL

Boasting a black sector dial with applied Arabic numerals and a discrete date window at 4:30, the J12's monochromatic display successfully feeds into the idea that less is sometimes more.

THE CONSTRUCTION
THE CONSTRUCTION

While ceramic might be more commonplace now, the J12's use of ceramic for its case and bracelet in the 1990s spoke to Chanel's impressive ability to foresee future trends.

TIMING MACHINE READOUT
TIMING MACHINE READOUT

This reading was taken (crown down) with a ONEOF Accuracy Boutique Edition timing machine at time of cataloging. It is provided as a courtesy only, and shall not be construed as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Please refer to our terms and conditions of sale for more information.

Condition

Watch is in near-mint condition, with very minor signs of use. The bracelet has 10 links total and fits an approx 7 1/4" wrist. Watch comes with inner box and an open chronometer certification card.

Our Perspective

Created as a merger between Chanel's famously fashionable tastes and their understanding of watches as an extension of one's personal style, the J12 has become an icon in the world of watchmaking thanks to its timeless design and early use of ceramic.

Eric Ku

Co-founder