The Chopard L.U.C 1860 from 1997 is easy to mistake for a refined dress watch, the kind that slips under a cuff and minds its manners. But, within that modest 37mm case lurks possibly Chopard’s most important movement, and arguably the best micro-rotor calibre of its era: the L.U.C cal. 1.96.

Developed over three years with input from Michel Parmigiani, this micro-rotor automatic was Chopard’s shot-across-the-bow against the “big three” luxury watch makers. The rare combination of a Poinçon de Geneve (or Geneva Seal) and COSC chronometer certification means the 1.96 is officially certified as being very good. Even Walt Odets, one of the most discerning voices in watch criticism during the early 2000s, praised the movement: “certainly among the finest–if not simply the finest–automatic calibre currently manufactured in Switzerland, one must wonder where it places Chopard among Switzerland’s manufacturers.”

Surprisingly, despite being a micro-rotor chronometer, the 1.96 manages a full 70 hours of power reserve from twin stacked barrels, making it far ahead of is time then, and keeps it competitive even now. It’s technically competent in many other ways, including an overcoil hairspring, swan’s neck micrometrical regulator, and Pellaton-like bidirectional automatic winding - extremely rare in micro-rotor movements. That’s before mentioning the hand-applied and extremely thorough finishing that goes beyond the minimum required for the Geneva Seal. The date is the cherry on top, extremely practical and able to be set from the crown - not always the case on micro-rotor calendars of the period.

Then there’s the solid gold guilloché dial made by Metalem, which also made the dials for Philippe Dufour’s Simplicity. Applied indices and dauphine hands complete the look.

And the final touch of artisanal craft on the watch lies on the solid gold case back – the emblem and markings are hand-engraved.

While Chopard was historically regarded as a jeweler rather than a “real” watchmaker, the L.U.C 1860 changed everything almost overnight. Both historically significant and extremely well made, the L.U.C 1860 reminds us that great watchmakers don’t make great watches, rather great watches make great watchmakers.

The watch is in overall excellent condition. The yellow gold case has some light marks on the bezel and lugs, with very well-defined hallmarks on the backs of the lugs. The case back features fully legible engravings. The dial is excellent, with a couple of marks visible in the small seconds register and a few other light marks on the surface. The hands are very clean. The watch is fitted with a black crocodile strap and an L.U.C-signed gold-plated buckle, both in very good condition.

Please Note: Due to CITES considerations, if the watch is to be shipped outside of the USA, the exotic skin strap will have to be removed.