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Lot #5336

Chopard L.U.C Pro One 8912

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Introduction

Launched in 2002, the L.U.C Pro One was Chopard’s unusually sophisticated interpretation of the professional dive watch. Rather than abandoning the principles established by its haute horlogerie L.U.C collection, Chopard adapted them to a genuinely capable sports watch, combining a substantial stainless steel case, screw-down crown and 300 metres of water resistance with considerably more decorative detailing than was typical of contemporary divers. Its arrival also came just before the dramatic increase in case dimensions that would characterise much of the following decade.

This example is distinguished by its multi-finish dial, bringing additional depth to the Pro One’s elaborate combination of textures and strongly defined luminous indications. Particularly noteworthy is the steel bezel: rather than employing a conventional insert, its numerals and graduations are formed in relief, with polished raised elements contrasting against the recessed surface. Inside is Chopard’s automatic calibre 4.96, an in-house micro-rotor movement developed from the architecture of the early L.U.C family and adapted for sports watches with a tungsten rotor. Offering approximately 65 hours of power reserve and COSC chronometer certification, it makes the Pro One considerably more mechanically ambitious than the typical luxury diver of its period.

Loupe This Scorecard

Grade

M 8.5

Status

Vetted & Approved

Included

Box, Certificate of Origin, booklet and hangtag

Est. value range

$2,000 – $4,000

The Details

Brand

Chopard

Dimensions

42.5mm

Model

L.U.C Pro One

Movement

Automatic Chopard L.U.C calibre 4.96

Reference

8912

Bracelet

Leather strap

Year

early 2000s

Condition

Excellent

Material

Stainless steel

Included

Box, Certificate of Origin, booklet and hangtag

Dial Color

Black

THE DIAL

THE DIAL

The black dial combines a textured centre with a contrasting outer section, giving the display considerable depth. Distinctively shaped luminous hour markers and hands provide the strong legibility expected of a dive watch while retaining the more refined design language of the L.U.C collection. A date aperture sits between four and five o’clock.

THE CONSTRUCTION

THE CONSTRUCTION

The 42.5mm stainless steel case combines a screw-down crown and crown guards with 300 metres of water resistance. Its distinctive unidirectional steel bezel dispenses with a separate insert, instead using raised polished numerals and graduations against a recessed textured surface. The screw-down case back is decorated with a compass-rose motif.

TIMING MACHINE READOUT

TIMING MACHINE READOUT

This reading was taken (crown down) with a ONEOF Accuracy Boutique Edition timing machine at time of cataloging. It is provided as a courtesy only, and shall not be construed as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Please refer to our terms and conditions of sale for more information.

Condition

Watch is in overall excellent condition. The stainless steel case shows surface scratches and small nicks. There is some wear to the strap screw heads. The case back retains well-defined engravings and relief detailing. The bezel is well defined, while the polished numerals on the insert show some surface scratches. The black dial and hands are in near-mint condition. It is fitted with a black leather strap and Chopard steel pin buckle showing surface scuffs. Comes with inner and outer boxes, Certificate of Origin, booklet and hangtag.

Please Note: Due to CITES considerations, if the watch is to be shipped outside of the USA, the exotic skin strap will have to be removed.

Our Perspective

The Pro One is an intriguing product of the early L.U.C era because Chopard approached the dive watch without abandoning the qualities that distinguished its high-end watchmaking. The blue dial and elaborate relief-worked bezel provide the visual interest, but the real substance lies beneath: a COSC-certified in-house micro-rotor calibre inside a 300-metre dive watch was an unusual proposition in the early 2000s.

Eric Ku

Co-founder