Introduction
Few independent watchmakers have left such a distinctive mark on contemporary haute horlogerie as Daniel Roth. Having established his reputation through his work at Audemars Piguet and, most notably, his instrumental role in reviving Breguet during the 1970s and 1980s, Roth founded his eponymous manufacture in 1988. His watches quickly became recognisable for their unusual double-ellipse cases, finely executed guilloché dials and inventive mechanical complications. These distinctive cases, known as Ellipsocurvex, provided an instantly identifiable aesthetic that set Daniel Roth apart from the more conventional designs of established Swiss manufacturers. In 2005, the manufacture introduced the Papillon as part of its Masters Complications collection, combining an innovative display of time with the traditional craftsmanship that had become synonymous with the brand.
The Papillon takes its name from the French word for butterfly, a reference to the ingenious mechanism that governs its unusual minute display. Rather than employing a conventional minute hand, the watch uses two pivoting, blued lozenge-shaped hands mounted on a rotating mechanism. As one hand completes its sixty-minute journey, it retracts beneath the dial, allowing the second to emerge and begin the next cycle. A jumping hour display provides an equally unconventional indication of time, whilst a separate aperture houses the running seconds. The resulting arrangement is both technically sophisticated and visually captivating. This particular example, reference 318.Y.50, is housed in an 18K rose gold Ellipsocurvex case and features a dark rhodium dial with intricate guilloché decoration. Numbered 8 of just 210 examples produced in this configuration, it represents a particularly compelling expression of Daniel Roth's inventive approach to mechanical watchmaking.
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Grade
M 9
Status
Vetted & Approved
Included
Watch Only
Est. value range
$30,000 – $40,000
The Details
Brand
Daniel Roth
Dimensions
41 × 44mm
Model
Ellipsocurvex Papillon
Movement
Automatic Daniel Roth calibre DR 115
Reference
318.Y.50
Bracelet
Leather strap
Year
Circa 2005
Condition
Near mint
Material
18K Rose Gold
Included
Watch only
Dial Color
Dark Rhodium
THE DIAL
The Papillon's dark rhodium dial features elaborate guilloché decoration and an unconventional arrangement of indications. Jumping hours are displayed through an aperture, accompanied by a separate running seconds display. The central rotating minute mechanism incorporates two blued, lozenge-shaped hands that alternately emerge and retract, creating the distinctive butterfly-inspired movement from which the watch takes its name.
THE CONSTRUCTION
The 41 × 41mm case is crafted from 18K rose gold and follows Daniel Roth's unmistakable Ellipsocurvex architecture, combining the geometry of an ellipse with the proportions of a traditional wristwatch. Its distinctive shape provides a generous canvas for the complicated dial arrangement, whilst the polished precious metal surfaces emphasise the sculptural qualities of Roth's original design.
TIMING MACHINE READOUT
This reading was taken (crown down) with a ONEOF Accuracy Boutique Edition timing machine at time of cataloging. It is provided as a courtesy only, and shall not be construed as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Please refer to our terms and conditions of sale for more information.
Condition
Watch is in overall near-mint condition. The 18K rose gold case shows light surface scuffs and signs of careful wear. The display case back has a more noticeable scratch along its edge, while the engravings remain very well defined. The hallmarks on the reverse of the lugs remain crisp. The dial elements are like new. It is fitted with a leather strap and an 18K rose gold Daniel Roth deployant clasp showing light surface marks.
Please Note: Due to CITES considerations, if the watch is to be shipped outside of the USA, the exotic skin strap will have to be removed.
Our Perspective
The Papillon perfectly captures the inventive spirit that made Daniel Roth such an influential figure in independent watchmaking. Its unusual mechanical display, unmistakable Ellipsocurvex case and limited production make it a fascinating alternative to more conventional complications. Numbered just 8 of 210, this rose gold example is particularly appealing to collectors who appreciate both technical ingenuity and distinctive design.
Eric Ku
Co-founder
