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Lot #1634

Heuer Carrera Dato 45 First Execution 3147N

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Introduction

Released during Baselworld in 1963, the Heuer Carrera was Jack Heuer’s answer to the market’s growing demand for pure motorsport-inspired chronographs. Having just taken the brand over in 1962, Jack wanted to put his own stamp on Heuer and, as such, sought for the Carrera to be a straightforward chronograph with a legible dial and intuitive design, a style of watchmaking that he preferred. As such, the Carrera was born and quickly became one of the most famous chronographs on the market. Today, it exists as one of the most legendary sports watches ever designed, and vintage examples like this Carrera ‘Dato 45’ ref. 3147N are highly coveted for good reason. Launched in 1966, the Carrera ‘Dato 45’ ref. 3147N derives its name from its functional date feature and 45-minute chronograph subdial, with its running seconds subdial at 9 o’clock, its 45-minute chronograph subdial at 3 o'clock, and its date window at 12 o’clock. With stick indices and luminescent hour hands, the ref. 3147N was perfectly legible at a quick glance in high-octane situations like racing around a race track – when it was originally intended for use. Offered with either a black or silver dial, the example we have here is found with the black (Noir) dial with a silver rehaut that houses its minute scale and forms an attractive border between its dark black dial and the Carrera’s thin stainless steel bezel. With long lugs, pump pushers and an easily-worn 36mm stainless steel case, the ref. 3147N is a beautifully understated and sophisticated watch that blends its utilitarian design inspiration with the classical aesthetic of its mid-1960s era. This first execution example was previously sold at the watershed "The Crosthwaite & Gavin Collection: Exceptional Heuer Chronographs From The Jack Heuer Era" at Phillips Geneva in 2017.

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Grade

V 8.5

Status

Vetted & Approved

Included

Watch Only

Est. value range

$10,000 – $15,000

The Details

Brand

Heuer

Dimensions

36mm

Model

Carrera Dato 45

Movement

Manual-wind Landeron cal. 189

Reference

3147N

Bracelet

Leather strap

Year

Circa 1966

Condition

Very good

Material

Stainless steel

Included

Watch only

Dial Color

Black

THE DIAL

Named after its DATe display and 45-minute chronograph subdial, this example is from the first series of the 'Dato 45,' as evidenced by its inclusion of a running seconds subdial at 9 o'clock and its date aperture at 12 o'clock. In later series' the running seconds subdial was removed and the date aperture was put in its place.

THE CONSTRUCTION

Carrying all of the vintage flair that mid-60s chronographs hold, this example's 36mm stainless steel case wears beautifully on the wrist, with its long lugs ensuring plenty of presence alongside its monochromatic black dial.

TIMING MACHINE READOUT

This reading was taken (crown down) with a ONEOF Accuracy Boutique Edition timing machine at time of cataloging. It is provided as a courtesy only, and shall not be construed as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Please refer to our terms and conditions of sale for more information.

Condition

Watch is in very good overall condition. The case shows signs of surface wear, but retains sharp edges and definition. The serial number between the lugs is clear and fully visible. The dial is excellent, with a bit of green tinged oxidation along the white edge. Dial features silver print vs. the more typical white print.

Our Perspective

A special timepiece for Heuer, the Carrera marked the beginning of the watchmaker's impressive domination of the chronograph market, with the 'Dato 45' being one of their most sought-after vintage models. Coming from the Crosswaithe/Gavin collection, this particular example represents a great opportunity to get a great example from an illustrious collection.

Justin Gruenberg

Co-founder