Introduction
LeCoultre's triple-calendar moonphase watches are among the most characterful American-market complicated watches of the post-war period. This early 1950s example combines day, date, month and moonphase indications within a compact rectangular case, powered by the manually wound calibre 486/AW. Its silvered dial uses apertures beneath 12 o'clock for the day and month, a central pointer for the date and a moonphase display at six, creating an unusually ambitious calendar display for a watch of these proportions.
The LeCoultre signature also places the watch within an interesting chapter of Jaeger-LeCoultre's American history. Swiss movements were imported into the United States and paired with domestically produced cases as part of the distribution arrangements that connected LeCoultre and Vacheron & Constantin in the American market. Particularly appealing here is the survival of the accompanying LeCoultre presentation box, outer card, guarantee and original instruction leaflet, period material that helps preserve the context in which these watches were originally sold.
Loupe This Scorecard
Grade
V 8.5
Status
Vetted & Approved
Included
Box, guarantee and instructions
Est. value range
$4,000 – $6,000
The Details
Brand
Jaeger LeCoultre
Dimensions
23mm x 40mm
Model
Triple Calendar Moonphase
Movement
Manual-wind LeCoultre calibre 486/AW
Reference
N/A
Bracelet
Leather strap
Year
Early 1950s
Condition
Excellent
Material
10K Gold Filled
Included
Box, guarantee and instructions
Dial Color
Silvered
THE DIAL
The silvered dial accommodates an impressive amount of information without appearing overcrowded. Day and month are displayed through twin apertures below 12 o'clock, with a central pointer indicating the date around the dial's perimeter. At six, the moonphase display is combined with subsidiary seconds, complemented by blued steel hands.
THE CONSTRUCTION
The 10K gold-filled case has a distinctive rectangular form, combining brushed and polished surfaces with stepped details at the top and bottom and bold enamelled hours on the front of the case. Measuring just 23mm by 30mm, it is remarkably compact considering the number of indications displayed.
TIMING MACHINE READOUT
This reading was taken (crown down) with a ONEOF Accuracy Boutique Edition timing machine at time of cataloging. It is provided as a courtesy only, and shall not be construed as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Please refer to our terms and conditions of sale for more information.
Condition
Watch is in overall excellent condition. The 10K gold-filled case shows surface scratches and marks commensurate with age, with a small ding to the case near 7 o’clock. The enamel within the hour markers remains intact. The silvered dial shows some small scratches to the central area and light marks in places to the grained-finish date track with pale blue numerals. The blued hands remain clean with what looks like a replacement calendar hand with red paint added. It is fitted with a black leather strap and gold-coloured Jaeger-LeCoultre pin buckle. Comes with original box, guarantee booklet, and instruction pamphlet.
Our Perspective
The appeal here extends beyond the complication itself. This is a fascinating product of LeCoultre's mid-century American history, combining a Swiss complicated movement with a gold-filled case intended for the US market. More importantly, the survival of the box, guarantee and instruction leaflet gives the watch a degree of period context often lost over more than seven decades.
Eric Ku
Co-founder
