Introduction
Patek Philippe's dress watches of the early 1960s were often exercises in restraint, but the ref. 3442-1 demonstrates how much character could be introduced through relatively subtle changes in proportion and dial design. Its compact round case is executed in 18K yellow gold, yet the unusually graphic dial gives the watch considerably greater visual presence than its 28mm diameter might suggest. The design belongs to an interesting period at Patek Philippe when more conventional dress watches existed alongside the increasingly experimental forms associated with designers such as Gilbert Albert.
Manufactured in 1961, this example features a silvered dial distinguished by bold black enamel divisions, creating an unusually architectural appearance against the otherwise restrained gold case. Inside is the manually wound calibre 23-300. The case back carries a later monogram engraving dated 1977, adding another chapter to the watch's history. Importantly, the accompanying Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confirms both its production in 1961 and its sale in December of the same year.
Loupe This Scorecard
Grade
V 8.5
Status
Vetted & Approved
Included
Extract from the Archives
Est. value range
$8,000 – $12,000
The Details
Brand
Patek Philippe
Dimensions
28mm
Model
Calatrava
Movement
Manual-wind Patek Philippe calibre 23-300
Reference
3442-1
Bracelet
Leather strap
Year
1961
Condition
Excellent
Material
18K Yellow Gold
Included
Extract from the Archives
Dial Color
Silvered
THE DIAL
The silvered dial is distinguished by bold black enamel divisions, lending an unusually graphic quality to the otherwise restrained design. The treatment recalls some of the more experimental Patek Philippe dial designs of the period, creating considerably more visual presence than might be expected from a traditional 28mm dress watch.
THE CONSTRUCTION
The 28mm case is fashioned from 18K yellow gold and uses a snap-on case back, maintaining the slim proportions expected of a formal Patek Philippe of the period. The case back carries a monogram engraving dating to 1977, providing a later and visible element of the watch's individual history.
TIMING MACHINE READOUT
This reading was taken (crown down) with a ONEOF Accuracy Boutique Edition timing machine at time of cataloging. It is provided as a courtesy only, and shall not be construed as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Please refer to our terms and conditions of sale for more information.
Condition
Watch is in overall excellent condition. The 18K yellow gold case shows surface scratches and small nicks, as expected of a watch of this vintage. Partially legible hallmarks remain on the sides of the lugs on both the crown and non-crown sides. The lower right lug on the crown side appears to have undergone a small repair at some point. The case back bears a monogram engraving dated April 1977 and shows some more noticeable scratches. The dial is in excellent condition, with crisp text and enamel division lines, with only a couple of small areas of loss to the enamel. The hands remain reasonably clean, with light surface scratches. It is fitted with a black leather strap and 18K yellow gold Patek Philippe pin buckle showing surface scratches. Comes with a Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives.
Please Note: Due to CITES considerations, if the watch is to be shipped outside of the USA, the exotic skin strap will have to be removed.
Our Perspective
The ref. 3442-1 is a reminder that size alone says relatively little about presence. At 28mm this is unquestionably a compact watch, but the contrast between its warm yellow gold case, silvered surface and striking black enamel dial divisions gives it an unexpectedly assertive identity.
Eric Ku
Co-founder
