Introduction
Tasked with creating the successor to the iconic ref. 2499, Philippe Stern created the legendary Patek Philippe ref. 3970, which has now gone on to become one of Patek Philippe's most sough-after vintage references. Released in 1986, a year after the ref. 2499 was discontinued, the ref. 3970 includes some design choices that are indicative of the period during which it was created. In the '80s, dress watches were getting smaller, and as such, Stern decided to take the ref. 2499's 37.5mm case and reduce it to 36mm for the ref. 3970. This served to broaden the piece's appeal and give it a classier aesthetic. The ref. 3970’s construction also builds upon this classy design with a concave bezel and downturned fluted lugs that help to slim the case's profile on the wrist and maintain its elegant look and feel. Equipped with the same movement that was in the ref. 2499, the Lemania cal. 2310, Patek Philippe’s artisans have heavily modified it to be just as finely finished as any other Patek movement. Carrying a lot of history itself, the Lemania cal. 2310 is often regarded as one of the most legendary movements to have ever existed, with its inception dating back to a joint project between Lemania and Omega in the 40's. With its visual overhaul, Patek decided to rebrand their refinished Lemania 2310 as the cal. CH 27-70, a movement that Patek collectors hold in particularly high regard, much like the ref. 3970 that it is found within.
Loupe This Scorecard
Grade
M 8.5
Status
Vetted & Approved
Included
Extract from the Archives
Est. value range
$80,000 – $120,000
The Details
Brand
Patek Philippe
Dimensions
36mm
Model
Perpetual Calendar Chronograph
Movement
Manual Wind cal. CH 27-70
Reference
3970EG
Bracelet
Leather strap
Year
1996
Condition
Very Good
Material
18kt White gold
Included
Watch and extract from the archives
Dial Color
Black

THE DIAL
This fourth-series variant sports a crisp black dial with pointed applied hour markers, thick inscriptions, and sword-shaped hands.

THE CASEBACK
This example features a screw-down exhibition caseback that provides a perfect view of its immaculately finished manual-wind Lemania based caliber.

TIMING MACHINE READOUT
This reading was taken (crown down) with a ONEOF Accuracy Boutique Edition timing machine at time of cataloging. It is provided as a courtesy only, and shall not be construed as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Please refer to our terms and conditions of sale for more information.
Condition
Watch is in very good condition. There is surface wear and a few minor dings along the edge of the case, visible mostly around the 9 o'clock side. Hallmarks on the exterior of the lugs are crisp and visible. The dial is in near-mint condition, with no visible defects. Watch comes on a generic strap with a wg Patek tang buckle. Watch comes with Extract from the Archives, confirming the watch was born with a black stick dial- quite rare and unusual.
Our Perspective
Perhaps one of the most iconic complicated timepieces to leave the hallowed halls of Patek Philippe, the ref. 3970 is a legendary watch with collectors across the world understandably scrambling to add an example to their collection. This example is quite a rarity, as the watch came from the Patek factory born with the black stick dial currently on the watch.













