Lot #2689
Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Moonpahse 5396R-001 Retailed by Tiffany & Co.
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Introduction
Renowned for their groundbreaking innovations in watchmaking, Patek Philippe holds an indisputable position as one of the most esteemed watchmakers to ever grace the industry. Central to their array of complications is the iconic annual calendar, a balance between the complex perpetual calendar and the triple calendar. The inaugural model, the ref. 5035, debuted in 1996, marking Patek Philippe's recognition of the need for an intermediate calendar. The watch we have here, however, is a modern interpretation of the ref. 5035, the Annual Calendar ref. 5396 which was debuted in 2006. Made of 18kt rose gold, the ref. 5396R features a 38.5mm x 11.2mm Calatrava-style case and a polished bezel that exudes understated elegance and sits comfortably on the wrist. Notable for its symmetrical dial layout in sunburst brown, on which this example also features with the illusive Tiffany & Co. stamp, the ref. 5396R features day and month apertures at 12 o’clock, a central time display, a sub-dial with moon-phase and 24-hour indicator, and a perfectly positioned date window at 6 o'clock. Its overarching design echoes the classic ref. 3448 from the 1960s, showcasing a timeless and elegant aesthetic. This Patek Philippe ref. 5396R-001 Annual Calendar emerges as a compelling modern dress watch, combining simplicity, mechanical complexity, and classic appeal in perfect harmony.
Loupe This Scorecard
Grade
M 9
Status
Vetted & Approved
Included
Box and Papers
Est. value range
$40,000 – $60,000
The Details
Brand
Patek Philippe
Dimensions
38.5mm x 11.2mm
Model
Complications Annual Calendar
Movement
Automatic cal. 324 S QA LU 24H/303
Reference
5396G-001
Bracelet
18kt rose gold bracelet
Year
2015
Condition
Near-Mint
Material
18kt rose gold
Included
Watch, box and papers
Dial Color
Brown soleil
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THE DIAL
Designed in perfect balance and harmony, the ref. 5396R features a brown sunburst dial that is completely symmetrical, which underscores how complex its automatic movement is, while also perfectly matching its rose gold construction. Additionally, this example feature the incredible rare Tiffany & Co. stamp which designates this piece as a watch that was originally sold to a VIP through Tiffany's AD network.
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THE CONSTRUCTION
Purposefully designed as an understated timepiece, the ref. 5396R features a Calatrava-style case with the collection's signature flat bezel and small crown that allow it to sit on the wrist just like how a traditional time-only dress watch should. Additionally, this example is offered on a bracelet instead of the usual leather strap, adding to its heft and wrist presence.
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TIMING MACHINE READOUT
This reading was taken (crown down) with a ONEOF Accuracy Boutique Edition timing machine at time of cataloging. It is provided as a courtesy only, and shall not be construed as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Please refer to our terms and conditions of sale for more information.
Condition
Watch is in near-mint overall condition. There are minor signs of use, including a few visible surface scuffs and scratches, primarily on the bezel and bracelet links. Dial near-mint with no visible flaws. Watch is currently sized for a 6 1/4" wrist, but the removed links are included with the watch.
Our Perspective
An impressively complex timepiece that features a complication that Patek has been famed for popularising, the ref. 5396R is an iconic member of Patek's Complications collection, and for very good reason.