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Lot #1789

Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5066J Yellow Gold

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Introduction

Debuting in 1997, the Patek Philippe Aquanaut was released to engage with a newly minted clientele with money in their pocket thanks to the stock market’s explosion during the dot.com era. Released under the same premise as the Nautilus when it was released in 1976, the Aquanaut was a trendy watch that broke from traditional Patek Philippe aesthetic stylings. Featuring a first for Patek with its composite strap, the Aquanaut needed to be delicately launched. So it was first released as a limited-edition offering of 1000 pieces with the ref. 5060A. Thanks to its success, in 1998, the year following, Patek launched a new variant of the Aquanaut, the ref. 5066 in stainless steel and in 18kt yellow gold, which is the example we have here. Featuring the same 36mm stainless case design and the same automatic cal. 330 SC movement as the ref. 5060, the ref. 5066 is very similar to its predecessor. However, in what was certainly a welcome change considering Patek Philippe’s famed finishing, the ref. 5066 did introduce a new sapphire crystal exhibition caseback to the collection. This allowed the 120m water-resistant Aquanaut 5066 reference to become the most water-resistant timepiece to sport an exhibition caseback, an impressive feat for Patek Philippe considering their pedigree was in complicated classical timepieces, not sports watches. An icon of modern watchmaking, the Aquanaut has transcended horology, and with the ref. 5066 marking the beginning of its production as a serially-produced watch, it is a remarkably important and collectible reference. Furthermore, the ref. 5066J stood as one of the most luxurious Aquanauts in production until its discontinuation in 2007.

Loupe This Scorecard

Grade

M 8.5

Status

Vetted & Approved

Included

Watch Only

Est. value range

$30,000 – $50,000

The Details

Brand

Patek Philippe

Dimensions

35.6mm

Model

Aquanaut

Movement

Automatic cal. 330 SC

Reference

5066J

Bracelet

Black tropical rubber strap

Year

Circa 2000

Condition

Very good

Material

18kt yellow gold

Included

Watch only

Dial Color

Black

THE DIAL

Featuring tritium hour markers beside its golden Arabic numerals, this example's indices have aged to contain a gentle patina, giving the watch a decidedly vintage flair.

THE CONSTRUCTION

Measuring 35.6mm in diameter, the ref. 5066J features the same rounded octagonal case design as the initial limited-edition Aquanaut reference, the ref. 5060A - a perfectly wearable size for men and women in today's context. With its 18kt gold construction, the ref. 5066J adds an air of luxury to the Aquanaut that breaks away from its original raison d'être as a utilitarian sports watch.

TIMING MACHINE READOUT

This reading was taken (crown down) with a ONEOF Accuracy Boutique Edition timing machine at time of cataloging. It is provided as a courtesy only, and shall not be construed as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Please refer to our terms and conditions of sale for more information.

Condition

Watch is in excellent condition. Bezel has some minor scratches and wear along the edge. Hallmarks on back of lugs are sharp and clean, and the case sides are sharp and well defined. Dial has tritium indexes that have aged to a pleasing yellow color. Rubber strap is cut to fit a medium sized wrist.

Our Perspective

A maverick amongst Patek Philippe's rather conservatively styled timepieces, the Aquanaut youthened the brand's catalog with its composite strap, sleek aesthetic, impressive 120m water resistance, and robust Nautilus-inspired construction. With its 18kt yellow gold construction, the ref. 5066J retained the luxurious qualities of Patek's offerings that collectors had grown to love.

Eric Ku

Co-founder