When Patek Philippe introduced the Calatrava in 1932, it established a design philosophy that would become central to the manufacture's identity. Inspired by the principles of modernist design, the original ref. 96 embraced simplicity, balanced proportions and the belief that elegance could be achieved through restraint rather than ornamentation. However, throughout the 1940s and 1950s, Patek Philippe also explored more expressive interpretations of the traditional round dress watch, introducing unusual case constructions, distinctive lugs and increasingly generous proportions. The ref. 1589 was among the most interesting examples of this approach. Produced during the middle decades of the twentieth century, it combined an unusually large 36mm case with an elaborate lug design that gave the watch a distinctly architectural character. The cases were manufactured by Antoine Gerlach, identified by the number 4 maker's mark, whose work contributed to some of Patek Philippe's most distinctive vintage designs.

This ref. 1589R is an especially appealing example, combining the reference's sculptural case construction with the warmth of 18K rose gold. At 36mm, it was considerably larger than the majority of contemporary dress watches, while its separately manufactured and soldered lugs extend dramatically from the case, creating a distinctive silhouette. The silver dial provides an elegant contrast, featuring applied Roman numerals and diamond-shaped hour markers, together with a subsidiary seconds register at six o'clock. Inside is Patek Philippe's manually wound calibre 12-400, a movement celebrated for its traditional Genevan construction and finishing. Rose gold examples of the ref. 1589 are particularly uncommon, with approximately ten having been identified in the collector market according to published accounts. Combining unusual proportions, expressive case design and classical watchmaking, the ref. 1589R represents a fascinating departure from the more restrained Calatrava models of the period.

Watch is in overall very good condition. The 18K rose gold case shows surface scratches and small nicks. The case back shows scratches and features a personal engraving. The silver dial exhibits patches of discolouration across its surface, along with some spotting and a couple of small chips. There are areas of degradation around the outer edge of the dial, particularly between 2 and 5 o’clock. The hands remain clean. It is fitted with a black leather strap and gold Patek Philippe pin buckle showing surface scuffs.

Please Note: Due to CITES considerations, if the watch is to be shipped outside of the USA, the exotic skin strap will have to be removed.