Introduction
First released in 1932 and named after the cross that the Calatrava Knights paraded around Spain and Portugal during the 12th and 13th centuries, the Patek Philippe Calatrava was released as a simple timepiece with broad appeal that would help secure Patek Philippe's finances following Jean and Charles Henri Stern's investment in the brand in the same year. Designed with a strict Bauhaus-inspired aesthetic in mind, the Calatrava used, and continues to use, simplicity as its means of establishing intrigue around the craftsmanship required to construct such a stunning timepiece. Silently breaking from that convention, the ref. 1589 that we have here utilizes a rather unique construction to establish intrigue. The largest Calatrava from its time at 36mm in diameter, the ref. 1589 was a large watch for the 1940s, but its particularly noteworthy design detail are its soldered lugs that result in a rather sculptural shape for a watch made between 1944 and 1952. Featuring a silver dial with a mix of applied square-shaped indices and Roman numerals, the ref. 1589’s dial only begins to hint at the complexity of its case, as made by Antoine Gerlach (master key mark 4). Incredibly rare, with only around 10 examples known to the market in 18kt rose gold, this timepiece is tremendously exciting given its ability to be worn as part of a modern collection given just how well it fits within modern sizing conventions.
Loupe This Scorecard
Grade
V 8
Status
Vetted & Approved
Included
Extract of the Archives
Est. value range
$10,000 – $15,000
The Details
Brand
Patek Philippe
Dimensions
36mm
Model
Calatrava
Movement
Automatic cal. 12-400
Reference
1589R
Bracelet
Leather strap
Year
1954
Condition
Very good
Material
18kt rose gold
Included
Watch and Extract from the Archives
Dial Color
Silver
THE DIAL
Featuring an attractive silver dial with a mix of applied Roman numerals and applied diamond-shaped hour markers, along with its running seconds subdial at 6 o'clock, the ref. 1589R's dial is nicely executed with various details that draw the eye.
THE CONSTRUCTION
While its 36mm is notable for being oversized for its production era, the ref. 1589R's 18kt rose gold case is especially noteworthy due to its incredibly unique soldered lugs. Sculptural in their shape, they jump out from the case, giving the watch a thoroughly unique wrist presence that its oversized case would fail to do with more standard lugs.
TIMING MACHINE READOUT
This reading was taken (crown down) with a ONEOF Accuracy Boutique Edition timing machine at time of cataloging. It is provided as a courtesy only, and shall not be construed as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Please refer to our terms and conditions of sale for more information.
Condition
The watch is in overall very good condition. The rose gold case is well defined, with some light marks and scratches, as expected for a watch of this vintage. A hallmark on the case side remains legible. The dial shows damage and degradation around the edge and on some of the hour markers, while the hands are quite clean. It is fitted with a brown alligator Patek Philippe strap and a gold tone generic buckle in excellent condition. The watch is accompanied by a Patek Philippe Archive Extract.
Please Note: Due to CITES considerations, if the watch is to be shipped outside of the USA, the exotic skin strap will have to be removed.
Our Perspective
The 1589R is a quietly bold piece — oversized for its era (36 mm), and in rose gold it has a warm, vintage feel. I love its simplicity: hours, minutes, small seconds, but with presence and historical weight. It’s rare, beautifully proportioned, and carries the soul of mid-century Patek Philippe design. A collector’s delight for those who appreciate vintage character.
John Reardon
Collectability.com
