Reference 1596 is one of the more sculptural expressions of Patek Philippe's mid-century Calatrava. Produced during the 1940s and into the early 1950s, its defining feature is its extraordinary case. At approximately 35mm it was generously proportioned for the period, but it is the elaborate lugs that give the reference its identity. Sweeping outwards before twisting back towards the case, they transform an otherwise restrained round watch into something considerably more architectural. Cases for the reference are associated with Geneva case maker Markowski, whose work can be found on a number of important Patek Philippe watches from the period.

This example is the ref. 1596R, combining an 18K rose gold case with a matching rose gold bracelet. Its champagne dial retains the beautifully balanced design seen on other examples of the reference, mixing applied Roman numerals with baton indexes around a subsidiary seconds display at six o'clock. Inside is Patek Philippe's manually wound calibre 12-120, one of the manufacture's important pre-war and early post-war time-only movements. The combination of the unusual 1596 case architecture, warm rose gold and matching bracelet gives this example an entirely different presence from the more commonly encountered leather-strap configurations.

Watch is in overall excellent condition. The 18K rose gold case shows light scratches and surface marks, as expected of a watch of this vintage. The case and applied lugs remain very well defined. The case back shows surface scratches, with one fully legible and one partially legible hallmark. There are three partially legible hallmarks on the crown side of the case. The rose / champagne toned colored dial is generally in excellent condition, with some light surface spotting and a couple of small chips. The rose gold hands remain very clean. The watch is fitted with a seven-link 18K rose gold bracelet showing surface scratches and moderate play between the links. Both straight end links retain two fully legible hallmarks. The clasp has a crisp stamp and is signed by maker Garridos, Portugal, alongside two crisp hallmarks. The bracelet is fitted with 22 links and fits approximately a 7½” wrist.