Released in 1932 and named after the 12th century Calatrava Knights from Spain and Portugal, the Calatrava ref. 96 was released as a simple Bauhaus-inspired timepiece with a broad appeal that could help resecure Patek Philippe's finances after Jean and Charles Henri Stern bought a controlling stake in the watchmaker earlier in the same year. Born from the dying embers of the dwindling art deco period and its weakening influence on design, the Calatrava features a minimalist aesthetic that utilizes simplicity as its means of establishing intrigue and garnering attention for its immaculately constructed case and dial. Leaning into its practical design rather than the exuberance of any complications or a busy design, the Calatrava was a clear departure from the Art Deco period's designs, which it remained over its decades in production, as the example we have here exemplifies. Featuring a simple 18kt white gold case that s paired with an equally understated white dial with painted indices and baton hands, this example is a carefully designed timepiece that steps away from the exuberance that previously dominated horological design and into the classy minimalism that speaks to what the Calatrava represents; restraint and measured elegance.

A timeless dress watch that has transcended watchmaking, the Calatrava is a timepiece that will always stay in fashion, as proven by how much modern collectors enjoy its understated design still to this day.