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Lot #4769

Patek Philippe Calatrava 2505J Champagne Two-Tone Dial Retailed by Tiffany & Co. 18k YG

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Introduction

Released in 1932 and named after the cross that the Calatrava Knights paraded around Spain and Portugal during the 12th and 13th centuries, the Patek Philippe Calatrava was released as a simple timepiece with broad appeal that would help secure Patek Philippe's finances following Jean and Charles Henri Stern's investment in the brand in the same year. Designed with a strict Bauhaus-inspired aesthetic in mind, the Calatrava used, and continues to use, simplicity as its means of establishing intrigue around the craftsmanship required to construct such a stunning timepiece. Without a complicated movement or a busy design, collectors gravitate towards the Calatrava's clean aesthetic and practicality, and the ref. 2505J we have here embodies that same design language perfectly. Launched in the early 1950s, the ref. 2505 was a unique take on the Calatrava with a 31mm case that, while small, is surprisingly hefty given the thickness of its straight lugs. Designed with a two-tone champagne dial with enamel-filled indices and Arabic numerals at the quarter hours, the ref. 2505 is an incredibly rare and unique Calatrava variant with fewer than 10 examples known to have made it to market. Boasting a Tiffany & Co. co-signature at 12 o’clock, this ref. 2505J is perhaps the most desirable example to have made it to market.

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Grade

V 8.5

Status

Vetted & Approved

Included

Watch Only

Est. value range

$15,000 – $25,000

The Details

Brand

Patek Philippe

Dimensions

31mm

Model

Calatrava

Movement

Manual-wind cal. 10-200

Reference

2505J

Bracelet

Leather strap

Year

Circa 1950s

Condition

Excellent

Material

18kt yellow gold

Included

Watch only

Dial Color

Champagne two-tone

THE DIAL
THE DIAL

Boasting a two-tone champagne dial with enamel-filled indices and Arabic numerals, the ref. 2505J's dial is immediately special and unique whn compared to other 1950s Calatravas, but with its Tiffany & Co. signature at 12 o'clock, this is a special example amongst the fewer than 10 ref. 2505s that are known to exist.

THE CONSTRUCTION
THE CONSTRUCTION

Featuring a rather unusual case design for a 1950s Calatrava, the ref. 2505J's 31mm 18kt yellow gold construction is notable for its thick lugs and flat bezel that drops with a sharp bevel that surrounds the entire watch.

TIMING MACHINE READOUT
TIMING MACHINE READOUT

This reading was taken (crown down) with a ONEOF Accuracy Boutique Edition timing machine at time of cataloging. It is provided as a courtesy only, and shall not be construed as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Please refer to our terms and conditions of sale for more information.

Condition

Watch is in overall excellent condition. The yellow gold case shows surface marks and a couple of small nicks around the edges. The case back retains a very well-defined 18K stamp, and there is a still-legible hallmark on the side of the lower right lug. The Tiffany hand etched stock number is still visible on the back of the upper right lug. The dial retains crisp Patek Philippe and Tiffany & Co. signatures, with some surface marks and a couple of more noticeable blemishes. It is fitted with a brown crocodile strap and a gold-coloured pin buckle.

Please note: The watch ticks at time of cataloging, but timekeeping is poor and a service is recommended.

Please Note: Due to CITES considerations, if the watch is to be shipped outside of the USA, the exotic skin strap will have to be removed.

Our Perspective

Visually distinctive, incredibly rare, co-signed by their best-known retailer, and a timeless piece of design, this ref. 2505J has everything a collector of vintage Patek Philippe could want.

Eric Ku

Co-founder